The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
- Page 176 of 244 - First - Home
No One
Has Ascended The Mountain Since The Activity Began A Month Ago; But
The Fire Is Believed To Be In "The Old Traditional Crater Of
Mokuaweoweo, In A Region Rarely Visited By Man."
A few days ago I was so fortunate as to make the acquaintance of Mr.
W. L. Green (now Minister of The Interior), an English resident in
Honolulu, a gentleman of wide scientific and literary culture, one
of whose objects in visiting Hawaii is the investigation of certain
volcanic phenomena.
He asked me to make the ascent of Mauna Kea
with him, and we have satisfactorily accomplished it to-day.
The interior of the island, in which we have spent the last two
days, is totally different, not only from the luxuriant windward
slopes, but from the fiery leeward margin. The altitude of the
central plateau is from 5,000 to 6,000 feet, there is not a single
native dwelling on it, or even a trail across it, it is totally
destitute of water, and sustains only a miserable scrub of mamane,
stunted ohias, pukeawe, ohelos, a few compositae, and some of the
hardiest ferns. The transient residents of this sheep station, and
those of another on Hualalai, thirty miles off, are the only human
inhabitants of a region as large as Kent. Wild goats, wild geese
(Bernicla sandvicensis), and the Melithreptes Pacifica, constitute
its chief population. These geese are web-footed, though water does
not exist. They build their nests in the grass, and lay two or
three white eggs.
Our track from Waimea lay for the first few miles over light soil,
destitute of any vegetation, across dry glaring rocky beds of
streams, and round the bases of numerous tufa cones, from 200 to
1500 feet in height, with steep smooth sides, composed of a very red
ash. We crossed a flank of Mauna Kea at a height of 6000 feet, and
a short descent brought us out upon this vast tableland, which lies
between the bulbous domes of Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, and Hualalai, the
loneliest, saddest, dreariest expanse I ever saw.
The air was clear and the sun bright, yet nothing softened into
beauty this formless desert of volcanic sand, stones, and lava, on
which tufts of grass and a harsh scrub war with wind and drought for
a loveless existence. Yet, such is the effect of atmosphere, that
Mauna Loa, utterly destitute of vegetation, and with his sides
scored and stained by the black lava-flows of ages, looked like a
sapphire streaked with lapis lazuli. Nearly blinded by scuds of
sand, we rode for hours through the volcanic wilderness; always the
same rigid mamane, (Sophora Chrysophylla?) the same withered grass,
and the same thornless thistles, through which the strong wind swept
with a desolate screech.
The trail, which dips 1000 feet, again ascends, the country becomes
very wild, there are ancient craters of great height densely wooded,
wooded ravines, the great bulk of Mauna Kea with his ragged crest
towers above tumbled rocky regions, which look as if nature,
disgusted with her work, had broken it to pieces in a passion; there
are living and dead trees, a steep elevation, and below, a broad
river of most jagged and uneven a-a. The afternoon fog, which
serves instead of rain, rolled up in dense masses, through which we
heard the plaintive bleating of sheep, and among blasted trees and
distorted rocks we came upon Kalaieha.
Enter page number
PreviousNext
Page 176 of 244
Words from 91636 to 92211
of 127766