The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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Mauna Kea, And The Forests Which Skirt His Base, Are The Resort Of
Thousands Of Wild Cattle, And There Are Many Men Nearly As Wild, Who
Live Half Savage Lives In The Woods, Gaining Their Living By
Lassoing And Shooting These Animals For Their Skins.
Wild black
swine also abound.
The mist as usual disappeared at night, leaving a sky wonderful with
stars, which burned blue and pale against the furnace glare on the
top of Mauna Loa, to which we are comparatively near. I woke at
three from the hopeless cold, and before five went out with Mr.
Green to explore the adjacent lava. The atmosphere was perfectly
pure, and suffused with rose-colour, not a cloud-fleece hung round
the mountain tops, hoar-frost whitened the ground, the pure white
smoke of the volcano rose into the reddening sky, and the air was
elixir. It has been said and written that there are no steam-cracks
or similar traces of volcanic action on Mauna Kea, but in several
fissures I noticed ferns growing belonging to an altitude 4000 feet
lower, and on putting my arm down, found a heat which compelled me
to withdraw it, and as the sun rose these cracks steamed in all
directions. There are caves full of ferns, lava bubbles in reality,
crust over crust, each from twelve to eighteen inches thick, rolls
of lava cooled in coils, and hideous a-a streams on which it is
impossible to walk two yards without the risk of breaking one's
limbs or cutting one's boots to pieces.
While we breakfasted a young man in rags, without shoes or
stockings, but with the accent and address of a gentleman, came in,
a man of good family and education in England, but who had "gone to
the bad out here," and had joined a gang of bullock-catchers. Why
do people persist in sending "ne'er-do-weels" to such regions
without a definite occupation? It is certain ruin.
I will not weary you with the details of our mountain ascent. Our
host provided ourselves and the native servant with three strong
bullock-horses, and accompanied us himself. The first climb is
through deep volcanic sand slashed by deep clefts, showing bands of
red and black ash. We saw no birds, but twice started a rout of
wild black hogs, and once came upon a wild bull of large size with
some cows and a calf, all so tired with tramping over the lava that
they only managed to keep just out of our way. They usually keep
near the mountain top in the daytime for fear of the hunters, and
come down at night to feed. About 11,000 were shot and lassoed last
year. Mr. S - - says that they don't need any water but that of the
dew-drenched grass, and that horses reared on the mountains refuse
to drink, and are scared by the sight of pools or running streams.
Unlike horses I saw at Waikiki, which shut their eyes and plunged
their heads into water up to their ears, in search of a saltish weed
which grows in the lagoons.
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