The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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All Green That I Have Ever Seen, Of
English Lawns In June, Or Alpine Valleys, Seems Poor And Colourless
As Compared With The Dazzling Green Of This Sixty-Five Miles.
It is
a joyous green, a glory.
Whenever I look up from my writing, I ask,
Was there ever such green? Was there ever such sunshine? Was there
ever such an atmosphere? Was there ever such an adventure? And
Nature - for I have no other companion, and wish for none - answers,
"No." The novelty is that I am alone, my conveyance my own horse;
no luggage to look after, for it is all in my saddle-bags; no guide
to bother, hurry, or hinder me; and with knowledge enough of the
country to stop when and where I please. A native guide, besides
being a considerable expense, is a great nuisance; and as the trail
is easy to find, and the rivers are low, I resolved for once to
taste the delights of perfect independence! This is a blessed
country, for a lady can travel everywhere in absolute security.
My goal is the volcano of Kilauea, with various diverging
expeditions, involving a ride of about 350 miles; but my health has
so wonderfully improved, that it is easier to me now to ride forty
miles in a day than ten some months ago.
You have no idea of the preparations required for such a ride, and
the importance which "littles" assume. Food for two days had to be
taken, and all superfluous weight to be discarded, as every pound
tells on a horse on a hard journey. My saddle-bags contain, besides
"Sunday clothes," dress for any "gaieties" which Hilo may offer; but
I circumscribed my stock of clothes as much as possible, having
fallen into the rough-and-ready practice of washing them at night,
and putting them on unironed in the morning. I carry besides, a
canvas bag on the horn of my saddle, containing two days' provender,
and a knife, horse-shoe nails, glycerine, thread, twine, leather
thongs, with other little et ceteras, the lack of which might prove
troublesome, a thermometer and aneroid in a leather case, and a
plaid. I have discarded, owing to their weight, all the well-meant
luxuries which were bestowed upon me, such as drinking cups, flasks,
etnas, sandwich cases, knife cases, spoons, pocket mirrors, etc.
The inside of a watchcase makes a sufficient mirror, and I make a
cup from a kalo leaf. All cases are a mistake, - at least I think
so, as I contemplate my light equipment with complacency.
Yesterday's dawn was the reddest I have seen on the mountains, and
the day was all the dawn promised. A three-mile gallop down the
dewy grass, and slackened speed through the bush, brought me once
again to the breezy slopes of Hamakua, and the trail I travelled in
February, with Deborah and Kaluna. Though as green then as now, it
was the rainy season, a carnival of rain and mud.
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