The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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Shortly After This, Deborah Uttered A Delighted Exclamation, And Her
Pretty Face Lighted Up, And I Saw Her Husband Spurring Along The Top
Of The Next Pali, And He Presently Joined Us, And I Exchanged My
Tired Mare For His Fresh, Powerful Horse.
He knew that a freshet
was imminent, and believing that we should never leave Laupahoehoe,
he was setting off, provided with tackle for getting himself across,
intending to join us, and remain with us till the rivers fell.
The
presence of a responsible white man seemed a rest at once. We had
several more gulches to cross, but none of them were dangerous; and
we rode the last seven miles at a great pace, though the mire and
water were often up to the horses' knees, and came up to Onomea at
full gallop, with spirit and strength enough for riding other twenty
miles. Dry clothing, hot baths, and good tea followed delightfully
upon our drowning ride. I remained over Sunday at Onomea, and
yesterday rode here with a native in heavy rain, and received a warm
welcome. Our adventures are a nine days' wonder, and every one says
that if we had had a white man or an experienced native with us, we
should never have been allowed to attempt the perilous ride. I feel
very thankful that we are living to tell of it, and that Deborah is
not only not worse but considerably better. E - - will expect some
reflections; but none were suggested at the time, and I will not now
invent what I ought to have thought and felt.
Due honour must be given to the Mexican saddle. Had I been on a
side-saddle, and encumbered with a riding-habit, I should have been
drowned. I feel able now to ride anywhere and any distance upon it,
while Miss Karpe, who began by being much stronger than I was, has
never recovered from the volcano ride, and seems quite ill.
Last night Kilauea must have been tremendously active. At ten P.M.,
from the upper verandah, we saw the whole western sky fitfully
illuminated, and the glare reddened the snow which is lying on Mauna
Loa, an effect of fire on ice which can rarely be seen.
I.L.B.
LETTER XII.
HILO, February 22.
My sojourn here is very pleasant, owing to the kindness and
sociability of the people. I think that so much culture and such a
variety of refined tastes can seldom be found in so small a
community. There have been pleasant little gatherings for sewing,
while some gentlemen read aloud, fern-printing in the verandah,
microscopic and musical evenings, little social luncheons, and on
Sunday evenings what is colloquially termed, "a sing," at this most
social house. One of the things I have specially enjoyed has been
spending an afternoon at the Rev. Titus Coan's. He is not only one
of the most venerable of the remaining missionaries, but such an
authority on the Hawaiian volcanoes as to entitle him to be
designated "the high-priest of Pele!" In his modest, quiet way he
told thrilling stories of the old missionary days.
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