Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central Australia And Overland From Adelaide To King George's Sound In The Years 1840-1: Sent By The Colonists Of South Australia By Eyre, Edward John
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There Were Several Of These Holes
Still Open, And The Traces Of Many Others In Every Direction Around,
Which Had
Either fallen in or been filled up by the drifting of the sand.
These singular wells, although sunk through a
Loose sand to a depth of
fourteen or fifteen feet, were only about two feet in diameter at the
bore, quite circular, carried straight down, and the work beautifully
executed. To get at the water, the natives placed a long pole against one
side of the well, ascending and descending by it to avoid friction
against the sides, which would have inevitably sent the sand tumbling in
upon them. We, however, who were so much clumsier in all our movements,
could not make use of the same expedient, nor indeed, would the size of
the wells, made by the natives, have enabled us even with their
assistance, to get out a moderate supply for the horses. It became
necessary, therefore, to open a new well, of much larger dimensions, a
task of no easy kind in so loose a sand.
Having put the overseer and men to their arduous employment, I ascended
the highest of the sand hills, and took a set of angles, among which
Point Fowler bore W. 16 degrees S. and Point Bell, E. 40 degrees S.
A small lake was visible at W. 40 degrees N. The country still looked
very cheerless in every direction, and no signs of improvement appeared
to relieve the dreary scene around, or to lead me to hope for better
country beyond.
Upon rejoining the well diggers, I found after great exertions they had
thrown out an immense quantity of sand, and made a large and commodious
well, and were just going to commence watering the horses; at this
juncture and before a single bucket of water could be taken out, the sand
slipped, and the sides of the well tumbled in, nearly burving alive the
man who was at the bottom. The labour of two hours was lost, and tired as
they were, the men had to begin their work afresh. It was eight at night
before the well was cleared out again sufficiently to enable us to water
the horses, for almost as fast as the sand was thrown out other sand fell
in; by nine the whole of them had received two buckets of water each,
when the sides of the well again shot in, and we were obliged to give up
our digging operations altogether, as the men were completely exhausted;
to relieve them Mr. Scott and I watched the horses during the night.
November 16. - Intending to remain in camp to-day, I set the men to clear
out the well once more. It was a tedious and laborious task, in
consequence of the banks of sand falling in so repeatedly, and
frustrating all their efforts, but at last by sinking a large cask bored
full of auger holes we contrived about one o'clock, to get all the horses
and sheep watered; in the evening, however, the whole again fell in, and
we gave up, in despair, the hopeless attempt to procure any further
supply of water, under such discouraging circumstances.
For some days past, we had been travelling through a country in which the
Mesembryanthemum grows in the greatest abundance, it was in full fruit,
and constituted a favourite and important article of food among the
native population; all our party partook of it freely, and found it both
a wholesome and an agreeable addition to their fare; when ripe, the fruit
is rich, juicy, and sweet, of about the size of a gooseberry. In hot
weather it is most grateful and refreshing. I had often tasted this fruit
before, but never until now liked it; in fact, I never in any other part
of Australia, saw it growing in such abundance, or in so great
perfection, as along the western coast. During our stay in camp a native
had been sent out to call some of the other natives, and towards evening
a good many came up, and were all regularly introduced to us by
'Wilguldy' and the others, who had been with us so long; I gave them a
feast of rice which they appeared to enjoy greatly. Our more immediate
friends and guides had learnt to drink tea, and eat meat and damper, with
which we supplied them liberally, in return for the valuable services
they rendered us.
November 17. - Moving on early, we were guided by the natives for about
twelve miles, round the head of Fowler's Bay, crossing through a very
sandy, scrubby, and hilly country, and encamping at a water hole, dug
between the sandy ridges, about two o'clock in the day. I had ridden a
little in advance of the party, and arriving at the water first,
surprised some women and children encamped there, and very busily engaged
in roasting snakes and lizards over a fire. They were much afraid and ran
away on seeing me, leaving their food upon the embers, this our friendly
guides unceremoniously seized upon and devoured, as soon as they came up
with the drays. These few women were the first we had seen for some time,
as the men appeared to keep them studiously out of our way, and it struck
me that this might be in consequence of the conduct of the whalers or
sealers with whom they might have come in contact on the coast. Old
Wilguldy, however, appeared to be less scrupulous on this point, and
frequently made very significant offers on the subject.
Soon after we had encamped several natives came up and joined those with
us. They were exceedingly polite and orderly - indeed the best conducted,
most obliging natives I ever met with - never troubling or importuning for
any thing, and not crowding around in that unmannerly disagreeable
manner, which savages frequently adopt - nor did I ever find any of them
guilty of theft; on the contrary, several times when we had left some
article behind, they called to us, and pointed it out.
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