Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central Australia And Overland From Adelaide To King George's Sound In The Years 1840-1: Sent By The Colonists Of South Australia By Eyre, Edward John
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We Were
Only, However, Fagging Our Poor Horses And Bewildering Ourselves To No
Purpose, For We Invariably Lost All Track
At the bottom, and I at last
became convinced that it was useless to try and trace the natives'
roadway
Further, since it always appeared to stop at rocky holes where
there was no water now. Keeping, therefore, the high ground, we travelled
near the top of the cliffs, bounding the sandy valley, but here again a
new obstacle impeded our progress. The country, which had heretofore been
tolerably open was now become very scrubby, and we found it almost
impossible either to keep a straight course, or to make any progress
through it in the dark. Still we kept perseveringly onwards, leading our
horses and forcing our way through in the best way we could. It was,
however, all in vain; we made so little headway, and were so completely
exhausting the little strength we had left, that I felt compelled to
desist. The poor boy was quite worn out, and could scarcely move. I was
myself but little better, and we were both suffering from a parching
thirst; under such obstacles labour and perseverance were but thrown
away, and I determined to await the day-light. After tying up the horses
the boy lay down, and was soon asleep, happy in his ignorance of the
dangers which threatened him. I lay down, too, but not to sleep; my own
distresses were lost in the apprehensions which I entertained for those
who were behind. We were now about one hundred and twenty-eight miles
from the last water; we had been four whole days and nights without a
drop for our horses, and almost without food also, (for parched as they
were they could not feed upon the dry and withered grass we found.) The
state the poor animals were in was truly pitiable, what then was likely
to be the condition of those that were coming after us, and carrying
heavy packs. It was questionable, even, if they would reach the distance
we had already attained in safety; and it was clear, that unless I
discovered water early in the morning, the whole of our horses must
perish, whilst it would be very doubtful if we could succeed even in
saving our own lives.
March 11. - Early this morning we moved on, leading slowly our jaded
animals through the scrub. The night had been one of painful suspense and
gloomy forebodings; and the day set in dark and cloudy, as if to
tantalise us with the hope of rain which was not destined to fall. In a
few miles we reached the edge of the cliffs, from which we had a good
view of the sandy valley we had been travelling round, but which the
thick scrub had prevented our scrutinising sooner. I now noticed some
hillocks of bare sand in the midst of it. These I had not seen before, as
the only previous point from which they could have been visible had been
passed by us in the dark. It now struck me, that the water spoken of by
the natives at Yeerkumban-kauwe might be situated among these sand-hills,
and that we were going away from instead of approaching it. The bare idea
of such a possibility was almost maddening, and as the dreadful thought
flashed across my mind I stood for a moment undecided and irresolute as
to what I ought to do. We were now many miles past these hills, and if we
went back to examine them for water, and did not find it, we could never
hope that our horses would be able to return again to search elsewhere;
whilst if there was water there, and we did not return, every step we
took would but carry us further from it, and lead to our certain
destruction.
For a few minutes I carefully scanned the line of coast before me. In the
distance beyond a projecting point of the cliffs, I fancied I discerned a
low sandy shore, and my mind was made up at once, to advance in the line
we were pursuing. After a little while, we again came to a well beaten
native pathway, and following this along the summit of the cliffs, were
brought by it, in seven miles, to the point where they receded from the
sea-shore; as they inclined inland, leaving a low sandy country between
them and some high bare sand-hills near the sea. The road now led us down
a very rocky steep part of the cliffs, near the angle where they broke
away from the beach, but upon reaching the bottom we lost it altogether
on the sandy shore; following along by the water's edge, we felt cooled
and refreshed by the sea air, and in one mile and a half from where we
had descended the cliffs, we reached the white sand-drifts. Upon turning
into these to search for water, we were fortunate enough to strike the
very place where the natives had dug little wells; and thus on the fifth
day of our sufferings, we were again blessed with abundance of
water, - nor could I help considering it as a special instance of the
goodness of Providence, that we had passed the sandy valley in the dark,
and had thereby been deterred from descending to examine the sand-hills
it contained; had we done so, the extra fatigue to our horses and the
great length of time it would have taken up, would probably have
prevented the horses from ever reaching the water we were now at. It took
us about two hours to water the animals, and get a little tea for
ourselves, after which the boy laid down to sleep, and I walked round to
search for grass. A little grew between the sand-drifts and the cliffs,
and though dry and withered, I was most thankful to find it. I then
returned to the camp and laid down, but could not sleep, for although
relieved myself, my anxiety became but the greater, for the party behind,
and the more so, because at present I could do nothing to aid them; it
was impossible that either the horses, or ourselves, could go back to
meet them without a few hours' rest, and yet the loss of a few hours
might be of the utmost consequence; I determined, however, to return and
meet them as early as possible in the morning, and in the mean time, as I
knew that the overseer and natives would, when they came, be greatly
fatigued, and unable to dig holes to water the horses, I called up the
boy, and with his assistance dug two large holes about five feet deep,
from which the horses could readily and without delay be watered upon
their arrival.
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