Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central Australia And Overland From Adelaide To King George's Sound In The Years 1840-1: Sent By The Colonists Of South Australia By Eyre, Edward John
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Most Of The Party Walked Considerable Distances In Addition To
Those Ridden.
All the party were engaged, more or less, in connection
with the three attempts to round the Bight, as
Were also all the horses,
and of the latter, three perished from over fatigue and want of water.
Yet, after all, the distance examined did not exceed 135 miles, and might
have been done easily in ten days, and without any loss, had the
situation of the watering places, or the nature of the country, been
previously known.
None but a person who has been similarly circumstanced, can at all
conceive the incessant toil and harassing anxiety of the explorer; when
baffled and defeated, he has to traverse over and over again the same
dreary wastes, gaining but a few miles of ground at each fresh attempt,
whilst each renewal of the effort but exhausts still more the strength
and condition of his animals, or the energy and spirits of his men.
Upon maturely considering our circumstances and position, I decided to
attempt to force a passage round the Great Bight, with pack-horses only,
sending, upon the return of the cutter, all our heavy stores and drays in
her to Cape Arid, if I found, upon her arrival, the instructions I might
receive, would justify me in taking her so far beyond the boundaries of
South Australia. This was the only plan that appeared to me at all
feasible, and I determined to adopt it as soon as our horses were
sufficiently recruited to commence their labours again.
On the 18th, the overseer returned with the two jaded horses we had used
on our last excursion, looking very wretched and weak. The day was
intensely hot, with the wind due north: the thermometer in the shade, in
a well lined tent, being 105 degrees at 11 A.M. - a strong corroboration,
if such were required, of the statement of the natives, that there was no
large body of inland water. At 2, P.M. the wind changed to west, and the
thermometer suddenly fell to 95 degrees; a little afterwards, it veered
to south-west, and again fell to 80 degrees; the afternoon then became
comparatively cool and pleasant.
The quality of the water at the well, was now beginning to affect the
health of the whole party; and on the 19th and 20th I put into execution
my resolution of removing to Fowler's Bay, where we again enjoyed the
luxury of good water. Upon digging up the things we had left buried, we
found them perfectly dry. On the 21st, I sent Mr. Scott down to the bay,
to see if the cutter had come back, but she had not. On his return, he
brought up a few fish he had caught, which, added to ten pigeons, shot by
himself and the native boys, at the sand-hills, gave a little variety to
our fare; indeed, for several days, after taking up our old position at
Point Fowler, we were well supplied both with fish and pigeons.
Time passed gradually away until the evening of the 25th, when a party of
natives once more came up, and took up their abode near us - three were of
those who had accompanied us all the way from Denial Bay, and some others
had also been with us before. On the 26th, I went down myself to Fowler's
Bay to look out for the cutter, which we now daily expected. Just as I
arrived at the beach she came rounding into the bay, and Mr. Scott and
myself got into our little boat, and pulled off to her, though with great
difficulty, the wind blowing very fresh and dead against us, with the sea
running high. We had three miles to go, and for a long time it was very
doubtful whether we should succeed in reaching the vessel; our utmost
efforts appearing barely to enable us to keep our ground. I was myself,
at the best, not very skilful in using an oar, and neither of us had had
much practice in pulling in a heavy sea. However, we got on board after a
good deal of fatigue, and were rewarded by receiving many letters, both
English and Colonial. I found that in returning to Adelaide the
Water-witch had proved so leaky as to be deemed unsafe for further
service on so wild a coast, and that the Governor had, in consequence,
with the promptness and consideration which so eminently distinguished
him, chartered the "HERO," a fine cutter, a little larger than the
WATERWITCH, and placing her under the command of Mr. Germain, had sent
him to our assistance. On board the HERO I was pleased to find the native
from King George's Sound, named Wylie, whom I had sent for, and who was
almost wild with delight at meeting us, having been much disappointed at
being out of the way when I sent for him from Port Lincoln.
After receiving our despatches, and taking Wylie with us, we set sail for
the shore, and then walked up in the evening to our depot; my other two
native boys were greatly rejoiced to find their old friend once more with
them; they had much to tell to, and much to hear from each other, and all
sat up to a late hour. For myself, the many letters I had received, gave
me ample enjoyment and occupation for the night, whilst the large pile of
newspapers from Adelaide, Swan River, and Sydney, promised a fund of
interest for some time to come. Nothing could exceed the kindness and
attention of our friends in Adelaide, who had literally inundated us with
presents of every kind, each appearing to vie with the other in their
endeavours to console us under our disappointments, to cheer us in our
future efforts, and if possible, to make us almost forget that we were in
the wilds. Among other presents I received a fine and valuable
kangaroo-dog from my friend, Captain Sturt, and which had fortunately
arrived safely, and in excellent condition.
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