The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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There Are Two
Intelligent And Highly Educated Ladies On Board, Daughters Of
Missionaries, And The Candid And Cautious Tone In Which They Speak
On The Same Subject Impresses Me Favourably.
Mr. Damon introduced
me to a very handsome half white gentleman, a lawyer of ability, and
lately interpreter to
The Legislature, Mr. Ragsdale, or, as he is
usually called, "Bill Ragsdale," a leading spirit among the natives.
His conversation was eloquent and poetic, though rather stilted, and
he has a good deal of French mannerism; but if he is a specimen of
native patriotic feeling, I think that the extinction of Hawaiian
nationality must be far off. I was amused with the attention that
he paid to his dress under very adverse circumstances. He has
appeared in three different suits, with light kid gloves to match,
all equally elegant, in two days. A Chinese gentleman, who is at
the same time a wealthy merchant at Honolulu, and a successful
planter on Hawaii, interests me, from the quiet keen intelligence of
his face, and the courtesy and dignity of his manner. I hear that
he possesses the respect of the whole community for his honour and
integrity. It is quite unlike an ordinary miscellaneous herd of
passengers. The tone is so cheerful, courteous, and friendly, and
people speak without introductions, and help to make the time pass
pleasantly to each other.
HILO, HAWAII.
The Kilauea is not a fast propeller, and as she lurched very much in
crossing the channel most of the passengers were sea-sick, a
casualty which did not impair their cheerfulness and good humour.
After dark we called at Kawaihae (pronounced To-wee-hye), on the
northwest of Hawaii, and then steamed through the channel to the
east or windward side. I was only too glad on the second night to
accept the offer of "a mattrass on the skylight," but between the
heavy rolling caused by the windward swell, and the natural
excitement on nearing the land of volcanoes and earthquakes, I could
not sleep, and no other person slept, for it was considered "a very
rough passage," though there was hardly a yachtsman's breeze. It
would do these Sybarites good to give them a short spell of the
howling horrors of the North or South Atlantic, an easterly
snowstorm off Sable Island, or a winter gale in the latitude of
Inaccessible Island! The night was cloudy, and so the glare from
Kilauea which is often seen far out at sea was not visible.
When the sun rose amidst showers and rainbows (for this is the
showery season), I could hardly believe my eyes. Scenery,
vegetation, colour were all changed. The glowing red, the fiery
glare, the obtrusive lack of vegetation were all gone. There was a
magnificent coast-line of grey cliffs many hundred feet in height,
usually draped with green, but often black, caverned, and fantastic
at their bases. Into cracks and caverns the heavy waves surged with
a sound like artillery, sending their broad white sheets of foam
high up among the ferns and trailers, and drowning for a time the
endless baritone of the surf, which is never silent through the
summer years.
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