The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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As a display of fireworks compared to
the conflagration of a metropolis. THEN, the sense of awe gave way
speedily to that of admiration of the dancing fire fountains of a
fiery lake; NOW, it was all terror, horror, and sublimity,
blackness, suffocating gases, scorching heat, crashings, surgings,
detonations; half seen fires, hideous, tortured, wallowing waves. I
feel as if the terrors of Kilauea would haunt me all my life, and be
the Nemesis of weak and tired hours.
We left early, and descended the terminal wall, still as before,
green with ferns, ohias, and sandalwood, and bright with clusters of
turquoise berries, and the red fruit and waxy blossoms of the ohelo.
The lowest depression of the crater, which I described before as a
level fissured sea of iridescent lava, has been apparently partially
flooded by a recent overflow from Halemaumau, and the same agency
has filled up the larger rifts with great shining rolls of black
lava, obnoxiously like boa-constrictors in a state of repletion. In
crossing this central area for the second time, with a mind less
distracted by the novelty of the surroundings, I observed
considerable deposits of remarkably impure sulphur, as well as
sulphates of lime and alum in the larger fissures. The presence of
moisture was always apparent in connexion with these formations.
The solidified surges and convolutions in which the lava lies, the
latter sometimes so beautifully formed as to look like coils of wire
rope, are truly wonderful. Within the cracks there are
extraordinary coloured growths, orange, grey, buff, like mineral
lichens, but very hard and brittle.
The recent lava flow by which Halemaumau has considerably heightened
its walls, has raised the hill by which you ascend to the brink of
the pit to a height of fully five hundred feet from the basin, and
this elevation is at present much more fiery and precarious than the
former one. It is dead, but not cold, lets one through into cracks
hot with corrosive acid, rings hollow everywhere, and its steep
acclivities lie in waves, streams, coils, twists, and tortuosities
of all kinds, the surface glazed and smoothish, and with a metallic
lustre.
Somehow, I expected to find Kilauea as I had left it in January,
though the volumes of dense white smoke which are now rolling up
from it might have indicated a change; but after the toilsome,
breathless climbing of the awful lava hill, with the crust becoming
more brittle, and the footing hotter at each step, instead of
laughing fire fountains tossing themselves in gory splendour above
the rim, there was a hot, sulphurous, mephitic chaos, covering, who
knows what, of horror?
So far as we could judge, the level of the lake had sunk to about 80
feet below the margin, and the lately formed precipice was
overhanging it considerably. About seven feet back from the edge of
the ledge, there was a fissure about eighteen inches wide, emitting
heavy fumes of sulphurous acid gas.
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