The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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The Koa Tree Has A Peculiarity Of Bearing Two Distinct
Species Of Leaves On The Same Twig, One Like A Curved Willow Leaf,
The Other That Of An Acacia.
After two hours ascent we camped on the verge of the timber line,
and fed our animals, while the two natives hewed firewood, and
loaded the spare pack-horse with it.
The sky was by that time
cloudless, and the atmosphere brilliant, and both remained so until
we reached the same place twenty-eight hours later, so that the
weather favoured us in every respect, for there is "weather" on the
mountain, rains, fogs, and wind storms. The grass only grows
sparsely in tufts above this place, and though vegetation exists up
to a height of 10,000 feet on this side, it consists, for the most
part, of grey lichens, a little withered grass, and a hardy
asplenium.
At this spot the real business of the ascent begins, and we
tightened our girths, distributed the baggage as fairly as possible,
and made all secure before remounting.
We soon entered on vast uplands of pahoehoe which ground away the
animals' feet, a horrid waste, extending upwards for 7000 feet. For
miles and miles, above and around, great billowy masses, tossed and
twisted into an infinity of fantastic shapes, arrest and weary the
eye, lava in all its forms, from a compact phonolite, to the
lightest pumice stone, the mere froth of the volcano, exceeding in
wildness and confusion the most extravagant nightmare ever inflicted
on man. Recollect the vastness of this mountain. The whole south
of this large island, down to, and below the water's edge, is
composed of its slopes. Its height is nearly three miles, its base
is 180 miles in circumference, so that Wales might be packed away
within it, leaving room to spare. Yet its whole huge bulk, above a
height of about 8000 feet, is one frightful desert, at once the
creation and the prey of the mightiest force on earth.
Struggling, slipping, tumbling, jumping, ledge after ledge was
surmounted, but still, upheaved against the glittering sky, rose new
difficulties to be overcome. Immense bubbles have risen from the
confused masses, and bursting, have yawned apart. Swift-running
streams of more recent lava have cleft straight furrows through the
older congealed surface. Massive flows have fallen in, exposing
caverned depths of jagged outlines. Earthquakes have riven the
mountain, splitting its sides and opening deep crevasses, which must
be leapt or circumvented. Horrid streams of a-a have to be
cautiously skirted, which after rushing remorselessly over the
kindlier lava have heaped rugged pinnacles of brown scoriae into
impassable walls. Winding round the bases of tossed up, fissured
hummocks of pahoehoe, leaping from one broken hummock to another,
clambering up acclivities so steep that the pack-horse rolled
backwards once, and my cat-like mule fell twice, moving cautiously
over crusts which rang hollow to the tread; stepping over deep
cracks, which, perhaps, led down to the burning fathomless sea,
traversing hilly lakes ruptured by earthquakes, and split in cooling
into a thousand fissures, painfully toiling up the sides of mounds
of scoriae frothed with pumice-stone, and again for miles
surmounting rolling surfaces of billowy ropy lava - so passed the
long day, under the tropic sun, and the deep blue sky.
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