Personal Narrative Of Travels To The Equinoctial Regions Of America During The Years 1799-1804 - Volume 2 - By Alexander Von Humboldt And Aime Bonpland.
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No Idea Was Then
Conceived Of The Direction Of A Road That Could Lead By Land To Nueva
Valencia And Caracas, Which Were Supposed To Be At An Immense
Distance.
The merit of having first crossed the Llanos to go to
Cabruta from the Villa de San Juan Baptista del Pao belongs to a
woman.
Father Gili relates that Dona Maria Bargas was so devoted to
the Jesuits that she attempted herself to discover the way to the
missions. She was seen with astonishment to arrive at Cabruta from the
north. She took up her abode near the fathers of St. Ignatius, and
died in their settlements on the banks of the Orinoco. Since that
period the northern part of the Llanos has been considerably peopled;
and the road leading from the valleys of Aragua by Calabozo to San
Fernando de Apure and Cabruta is much frequented. The chief of the
famous expedition of the boundaries made choice of the latter place in
1754 to establish dock-yards for building the vessels necessary for
conveying his troops intended for the Upper Orinoco. The little
mountain that rises northeast of Cabruta can be discerned from afar in
the steppes and serves as a landmark for travellers.
We embarked in the morning at Caycara; and driving with the current of
the Orinoco, we soon passed the mouth of the Rio Cuchivero, which
according to ancient tradition is the country of the Aikeambenanos, or
women without husbands; and we there reached the paltry village of
Alta Gracia, which is called a Spanish town. It was near this place
that Jose de Iturriaga founded the Pueblo de Ciudad Real, which still
figures on the most modern maps, though it has not existed for fifty
years past, on account of the insalubrity of its situation. Beyond the
point where the Orinoco turns to the east, forests are constantly seen
on the right bank, and the llanos or steppes of Venezuela on the left.
The forests which border the river are not however so thick as those
of the Upper Orinoco. The population, which augments perceptibly as
you advance toward the capital, comprises but few Indians, and is
composed chiefly of whites, negroes, and men of mixed descent. The
number of the negroes is not great; but here, as everywhere else, the
poverty of their masters does not tend to procure for them more humane
treatment. An inhabitant of Caycara had just been condemned to four
years' imprisonment, and a fine of one hundred piastres for having, in
a paroxysm of rage, tied a negress by the legs to the tail of his
horse, and dragged her at full gallop through the savannah till she
expired. It is gratifying to record that the Audiencia was generally
blamed in the country for not having punished more severely so
atrocious an action. Yet some few persons, who pretended to be the
most enlightened and most sagacious of the community, deemed the
punishment of a white contrary to sound policy, at the moment when the
blacks of St. Domingo were in complete insurrection. Since I left
those countries, civil dissensions have put arms into the hands of the
slaves; and fatal experience has led the inhabitants of Venezuela to
regret that they refused to listen to Don Domingo Tovar, and other
right-thinking men, who, as early as the year 1795, lifted up their
voices in the cabildo of Caracas, to prevent the introduction of
blacks, and to propose means that might ameliorate their condition.
After having slept on the 10th of June in an island in the middle of
the river (I believe that called Acaru by Father Caulin), we passed
the mouth of the Rio Caura. This, the Aruy and the Carony, are the
largest tributary streams which the Orinoco receives on its right
bank. All the Christian settlements are near the mouth of the river;
and the villages of San Pedro, Aripao, Urbani, and Guaraguaraico,
succeed each other at the distance of a few leagues. The first and the
most populous contains only about two hundred and fifty souls. San
Luis de Guaraguaraico is a colony of negroes, some freed and others
fugitives from Essequibo. This colony merits the particular attention
of the Spanish Government, for it can never be sufficiently
recommended to endeavour to attach the slaves to the soil, and suffer
them to enjoy as farmers the fruits of their agricultural labours. The
land on the Caura, for the most part a virgin soil, is extremely
fertile. There are pasturages for more than 15,000 beasts; but the
poor inhabitants have neither horses nor horned cattle. More than
five-sixths of the banks of the Caura are either desert, or occupied
by independent and savage tribes. The bed of the river is twice choked
up by rocks: these obstructions occasion the famous Raudales of Mura
and of Para or Paru, the latter of which has a portage, because it
cannot be passed by canoes. At the time of the expedition of the
boundaries, a small fort was erected on the northern cataract, that of
Mura; and the governor, Don Manuel Centurion, gave the name of Ciudad
de San Carlos to a few houses which some families, consisting of
whites and mulattos, had constructed near the fort. South of the
cataract of Para, at the confluence of the Caura and the Erevato, the
mission of San Luis was then situated; and a road by land led thence
to Angostura, the capital of the province. All these attempts at
civilization have been fruitless. No village now exists above the
Raudal of Mura; and here, as in many other parts of the colonies, the
natives may be said to have reconquered the country from the
Spaniards. The valley of Caura may become one day or other highly
interesting from the value of its productions, and the communications
which it affords with the Rio Ventuari, the Carony, and the Cuyuni. I
have shown above the importance of the four tributary streams which
the Orinoco receives from the mountains of Parima.
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