A Woman's Journey Round The World, From Vienna To Brazil, Chili, Tahiti, China, Hindostan, Persia, And Asia Minor By Ida Pfeiffer
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He
Endeavoured To Wrest It From Me, When, Luckily, I Saw In The
Distance Two English Soldiers, Who Hastened Up In Answer To My
Cries, And, On Seeing This, The Fellow Ran Off.
I related my
adventure to the soldiers, who congratulated me on the recovery of
my luggage, and conducted me to the barracks, where one of the
officers was kind enough to give orders that I should be conducted
to another hotel.
My first visit was to the temple of Dagoha, which contains a
valuable relic of the god Buddha, namely, one of his teeth, and,
together with the out-buildings, is surrounded by a wall. The
circumference of the principal temple is not very considerable, and
the sanctuary, which contains the tooth, is a small chamber hardly
twenty feet broad. Within this place all is darkness, as there are
no windows, and inside the door, there is a curtain, to prevent the
entry of any light. The walls and ceiling are covered with silk
tapestry, which, however, has nothing but its antiquity to recommend
it. It is true that it was interwoven with gold thread, but it
appeared never to have been especially costly, and I cannot believe
that it ever produced that dazzling effect which some travellers
have described. Half of the chamber was engrossed by a large table,
or kind of altar, inlaid with plates of silver, and ornamented round
the edges with precious stones. On it stands a bell-shaped case,
measuring at the bottom at least three feet in diameter, and the
same in height. It is made of silver thickly gilt, and decorated
with a number of costly jewels; there is a peacock in the middle
entirely formed of precious stones; but all these treasures fail to
produce any very great effect, from the clumsy and inartistic
fashion in which they are set.
Under the large case there are six smaller ones, said to be of pure
gold; under the last is the tooth of the all-powerful divinity. The
outer case is secured by means of three locks, two of the keys
belonging to which used to be kept by the English governor, while
the third remained in the custody of the chief priest of the temple.
A short time previous to my visit, however, the government had
restored the two keys to the natives with great solemnities, and
they are now confided to one of the native Radschas, or princes.
The relic itself is only shown to a prince or some other great
personage; all other people must be content to believe the priest,
who, for a small gratuity, has the politeness to describe the size
and beauty of the tooth. The dazzling whiteness of its hue is said
to eclipse that of ivory, while its form is described as being more
beautiful than anything of the kind ever beheld, and its size to
equal that of the tooth of an immense bullock.
An immense number of pilgrims come here every year to pay their
adoration to this divine tooth.
"Where ignorance is bliss, 't is folly to be wise." How many people
are there among us Christians who believe things which require quite
as great an amount of faith? For instance, I remember witnessing,
when I was a girl, a festival at Calvaria, in Gallicia, which is
still celebrated every year. A great multitude of pilgrims go there
to obtain splinters of the true cross. The priests manufacture
little crosses of wax, on which, as they assure the faithful, they
stick splinters of the real one. These little crosses, wrapped up
in paper and packed in baskets, are placed ready for distribution,
that is, for sale. Every peasant generally takes three: one to put
in his room, one in his stable, and another in his barn. The most
wonderful portion of the business is that these crosses must be
renewed every year, as in that period they lose their divine power.
But let me return to Candy. In a second temple, adjoining that in
which the relic is preserved, are two gigantic hollow statues of the
god Buddha in a sitting posture, and both are said to be formed of
the finest gold. Before these colossi stand whole rows of smaller
Buddhas, of crystal, glass, silver, copper, and other materials. In
the entrance hall, likewise, are several stone statues of different
gods, with other ornaments, most of them roughly and stiffly
executed. In the middle stands a small plain monument of stone,
resembling a bell turned upside down; it is said to cover the grave
of a Brahmin.
On the outer walls of the principal temple are wretched daubs in
fresco, representing the state of eternal punishment. Some of the
figures are being roasted, twitched with red-hot pincers, partly
baked, or forced to swallow fire. Others again, are jammed between
rocks, or having pieces of flesh cut out of their bodies, etc., but
fire appears to play the principal part in these punishments.
The doors of the principal temple are made of metal, and the door
posts of ivory. On the first are the most beautiful arabesques in
basso-relief, and on the second, in inlaid work, representing
flowers and other objects. Before the principal entrance, four of
the largest elephant's teeth ever found are stuck up by way of
ornament.
Ranged round the court-yard are the tents of the priests, who always
go about with bare, shaven heads, and whose costume consists of a
light yellow upper garment, which nearly covers the whole body. It
is said that there were once 500 officiating priests in this temple;
at present the divinity is obliged to content himself with a few
dozen.
The chief part of the religious ceremonies of the Buddhists consists
in presents of flowers and money. Every morning and evening a most
horrible instrument, fit to break the drum of one's ear, and called
a tam-tam, together with some shrill trumpets and fifes, is played
before the door of the temple.
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