In this way I entered upon a fourteen days' journey through deserts
and steppes, a journey full of difficulties and dangers, without any
convenience, shelter, or protection. I travelled like the poorest
Arab, and was obliged, like him, to be content to bear the most
burning sun, with no food but bread and water, or, at the most, a
handful of dates, or some cucumbers, and with the hot ground for a
bed.
I had, while in Baghdad, written out a small list of Arabian words,
so that I might procure what was most necessary. Signs were easier
to me than words, and by the aid of both, I managed to get on very
well. I became in time so used to the signs that, in places where I
could make use of the language, I was obliged to take some pains to
prevent myself from using my hands at the same time.
While I was taking leave of Herr Swoboda, my little portmanteau, and
a basket with bread and other trifles, had already been put into two
sacks, which were hung over the back of the mule. My mantle and
cushion formed a comfortable soft seat, and everything was in
readiness - only the mounting was rather difficult, as there was no
stirrup.
Our caravan was small. It counted only twenty-six animals, most of
which carried merchandise, and twelve Arabs, of whom five went on
foot. A horse or mule carries from two to three and a half
hundredweight, according to the state of the road.
About 6 we started. Some miles outside the town several other
travellers joined us, chiefly pedlars with loaded animals, so that
presently our party increased in numbers to sixty. But our numbers
changed every evening, as some always remained behind, or others
joined us. We often had with us some shocking vagabonds, of whom I
was more afraid than robbers. It is, moreover, said not to be
uncommon for thieves to join the caravan, for the purpose of
carrying on their depredations, if there should be an opportunity of
doing so.
I should, on the whole, have no great faith in the protection which
such a caravan is capable of affording, as the people who travel in
this way are principally pedlars, pilgrims, and such like, who
probably have never in their lives used a sword or fired a gun. A
few dozen well-armed robbers would certainly get the better of a
caravan of even a hundred persons.
On the first night we rode ten hours, until we reached Jengitsche.
The country around was flat and barren, uncultivated and
uninhabited. Some few miles outside Baghdad cultivation appeared to
be suddenly cut off, and it was not until we came to Jengitsche that
we saw again palms and stubble fields, showing that human industry
is capable of producing something everywhere.
Travelling with caravans is very fatiguing: although a walking pace
is never exceeded, they are on the road from nine to twelve hours
without halting. When travelling at night the proper rest is lost,
and in the day it is scarcely possible to get any sleep, exposed in
the open air to the excessive heat, and the annoyances of flies and
mosquitoes.
18th June. In Jengitsche we met with a chan, but it was by no means
equal in appearance and cleanliness to that on the road to Babylon;
its chief advantage was being situated near the Tigris.
The chan was surrounded by a small village, to which I proceeded for
the purpose of satisfying my hunger. I went from hut to hut, and at
last fortunately succeeded in obtaining some milk and three eggs. I
laid the eggs in the hot ashes and covered them over, filled my
leathern flask from the Tigris, and thus loaded returned proudly to
the chan. The eggs I ate directly, but saved the milk for the
evening. After this meal, procured with such difficulty, I
certainly felt happier, and more contented than many who had dined
in the most sumptuous manner.
During my search through the village, I noticed, from the number of
ruined houses and huts, that it seemed to have been of some extent
formerly. Here, also, the last plague had carried off the greater
part of the inhabitants; for, at the present time, there were only a
few very poor families.
I here saw a very peculiar mode of making butter. The cream was put
into a leathern bottle, and shaken about on the ground until the
butter had formed. When made, it was put into another bottle filled
with water. It was as white as snow, and I should have taken it for
lard if I had not seen it made.
We did not start this evening before 10 o'clock, and then rode
eleven hours without halting, to Uesi. The country here was less
barren than that between Baghdad and Jengitsche. We did not,
indeed, see any villages on the road; but small groups of palms, and
the barking of dogs, led us to conclude that there were some very
near. At sun-rise we were gratified by the sight of a low range of
mountains, and the monotony of the plain was here and there broken
at intervals, by small rows of hills.
19th June. Yesterday I was not quite satisfied with the chan at
Jengitsche; but I should have been very thankful for a far worse one
today, that we might have found any degree of shelter from the
pitiless heat of the sun; instead, we were obliged to make our
resting place in a field of stubble, far removed from human
habitations.
