The dress of the Portuguese was extremely
rich; they wore ample robes with large folds, and short silk
jackets; in their ears hung ear-rings of pearls and diamonds, and
round their necks, arms, and even ankles, were gold and silver
chains.
In the afternoon I took a walk to one of the numerous cinnamon
plantations round Colombo. The cinnamon tree or bush is planted in
rows; it attains at most a height of nine feet, and bears a white,
scentless blossom. From the fruit, which is smaller than an acorn,
oil is obtained by crushing and boiling it; the oil then disengages
itself and floats on the top of the water. It is mixed with cocoa-
oil and used for burning.
There are two cinnamon harvests in the course of the year. The
first and principal one takes place from April to July, and the
second from November to January. The rind is peeled from the
branches by means of knives, and then dried in the sun; this gives
it a yellowish or brownish tint. The best cinnamon is a light
yellow, and not thicker than pasteboard.
The essential oil of cinnamon, used in medicine, is extracted from
the plant itself, which is placed in a vessel full of water, and
left to steep for eight to ten days. The whole mass is then
transferred to a retort and distilled over a slow fire. In a short
time, on the surface of the water thus distilled a quantity of oil
collects, and this is then skimmed off with the greatest care.
In the animal kingdom, besides the elephants, I was much struck by
the number and tameness of the ravens of Ceylon. In every small
town and village may be seen multitudes of these birds, that come up
to the very doors and windows and pick up everything. They play the
part of scavengers here, just as dogs do in Turkey. The horned
cattle are rather small, with humps between the shoulder-blades;
these humps consist of flesh and are considered a great dainty.
In Colombo and Pointe de Galle there are likewise a great many large
white buffaloes, belonging to the English government, and imported
from Bengal. They are employed in drawing heavy loads.
Under the head of fruit, I may mention the pine-apple as being
particularly large and good.
I found the temperature supportable, especially in the high country
round about Candy, where, after some heavy rain, it might almost be
called cold. In the evening and morning the thermometer stood as
low as 61 degrees 25' Fah.; and in the middle of the day and in the
sun, it did not rise above 79 degrees 25'. In Colombo and Pointe de
Galle, the weather was fine, and the heat reached 95 degrees Fah.
On the 26th of October I again reached Pointe de Galle, and on the
following day I embarked in another English steamer for India.
CHAPTER XI. MADRAS AND CALCUTTA.
DEPARTURE FROM CEYLON - MADRAS - CALCUTTA - MODE OF LIFE OF THE
EUROPEANS - THE HINDOOS - PRINCIPAL OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN THE TOWN -
VISIT TO A BABOO - RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS OF THE HINDOOS - HOUSES OF
DEATH AND PLACES FOR BURNING THE DEAD - MAHOMEDAN AND EUROPEAN
MARRIAGE CEREMONIES.
On the afternoon of the 27th of October I went on board the
steamship "Bentinck," of 500 horse-power; but we did not weigh
anchor much before evening.
Among the passengers was an Indian prince of the name of Schadathan,
who had been made prisoner by the English for breaking a peace he
had concluded with them. He was treated with all the respect due to
his rank, and he was allowed his two companions, his mundschi, or
secretary, and six of his servants. They were all dressed in the
Oriental fashion, only, instead of turbans, they wore high, round
caps, composed of pasteboard covered with gold or silver stuff.
They wore also luxuriant long black hair, and beards.
The companions of the prince took their meals with the servants. A
carpet was spread out upon the deck, and two large dishes, one
containing boiled fowls, and the other pillau, placed upon it; the
company used their hands for knives and forks.
28th October. We still were in sight of the fine dark mountain
ranges of Ceylon. Now and then, too, some huge detached groups of
rocks would be visible towering above the waves.
29th October. Saw no land. A few whales betrayed their presence by
the showers of spray they spouted up, and immense swarms of flying
fish were startled by the noise of our engines.
On the morning of the 30th of October we came in sight of the Indian
continent. We soon approached near enough to the shore to
distinguish that it was particularly remarkable for its beauty,
being flat and partly covered with yellow sand; in the back-ground
were chains of low hills.
At 1 o'clock, P.M., we anchored at a considerable distance (six
miles) from Madras. The anchoring place here is the most dangerous
in the world, the ground-swell being so strong that at no time can
large vessels approach near the town, and many weeks often pass
without even a boat being able to do so. Ships, consequently, only
stop a very short time, and there are rarely more than a dozen to be
seen riding at anchor. Large boats, rowed by ten or twelve men,
come alongside them to take the passengers, letters, and merchandise
ashore.
The steamer stops here eight hours, which may be spent in viewing
the town, though any one so doing runs a chance of being left
behind, as the wind is constantly changing. I trusted to the good
luck which had always attended me during my travels, and made one of
the party that disembarked; but we had not got more than half way to
land when I was punished for my curiosity.
