The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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Close To
Us The Main River Had Parted Above And United Below A Small Mamane
Tree With Bracken Under Its Shadow, And There Are Several Oases Of
The Same Kind.
I have twice been down to the larger world of the wool-shed, when
tired of strips of dried mutton and my own society.
The hospitality
there is as great as the accommodation is small. The first time, I
slept on the floor of the shed with some native women who were up
there, and was kept awake all night by the magnificence of the light
on the volcano. The second time, several of us slept in a small,
dark grass-wigwam, only intended as a temporary shelter, the
lowliest dwelling in every sense of the word that I ever occupied.
That evening was the finest I have seen on the islands; there was a
less abrupt transition from day to night, and the three great
mountains and the desert were etherealised and glorified by a
lingering rose and violet light. When darkness came on, our great
camp fire was hardly redder than the glare from the volcano, and its
leaping flames illuminated as motley a group as you would wish to
see; the native shearers, who, after shearing eighty sheep each in a
day, washed, and changed their clothes before eating; a negro
goatherd with a native wife and swarthy children, two native women,
my host and myself, all engaged in the rough cooking befitting the
region, toasting strips of jerked mutton on sticks, broiling wild
bullock on the coals, baking kalo under ground, and rolls in a rough
stone oven, and all speaking that base mixture of English and
Hawaiian which is current coin here.
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