Knees, so
snatching up the plaid and jumping on him I galloped away, convinced
that that crack was following me! However, either the crack thought
better of it, or Kahele travelled faster, for in another half-hour I
arrived where the whole region steams, smokes, and fumes with
sulphur, and was kindly welcomed here by Mr. Gilman, where he and
the old Chinaman appear to be alone.
After a seven hours' ride the quiet and the log fire are very
pleasant, and the host is a most intelligent and sympathising
listener. It is a solemn night, for the earth quakes, and the sound
of Halemaumau is like the surging of the sea.
HILO. June 11th.
Once more I am among palm and mango grove, and friendly faces, and
sounds of softer surges than those of Kilauea. I had a dreary ride
yesterday, as the rain was incessant, and I saw neither man, bird,
or beast the whole way. Kahele was so heavily loaded that I rode
the thirty miles at a foot's pace, and he became so tired that I had
to walk.
It has been a splendid week, with every circumstance favourable,
nothing sordid or worrying to disturb the impressions received,
kindness and goodwill everywhere, a travelling companion whose
consideration, endurance, and calmness were beyond all praise, and
at the end the cordial welcomes of my Hawaiian "home."
I.L.B.