The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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The Track For Twenty-Six Miles Is Just
In And Out Of Gulches, From 100 To 800 Feet In Depth, All Opening On
The Sea, Which Sweeps Into Them In Three Booming Rollers.
The
candle-nut or kukui (aleurites triloba) tree, which on the whole
predominates, has leaves of a rich deep green when mature, which
contrast beautifully with the flaky silvery look of the younger
foliage.
Some of the shallower gulches are filled exclusively with
this tree, which in growing up to the light to within 100 feet of
the top, presents a mass and density of leafage quite unique, giving
the gulch the appearance as if billows of green had rolled in and
solidified there. Each gulch has some specialty of ferns and trees,
and in such a distance as sixty miles they vary considerably with
the variations of soil, climate, and temperature. But everywhere
the rocks, trees, and soil are covered and crowded with the most
exquisite ferns and mosses, from the great tree-fern, whose bright
fronds light up the darker foliage, to the lovely maiden-hair and
graceful selaginellas which are mirrored in pools of sparkling
water. Everywhere, too, the great blue morning glory opened to a
heaven not bluer than itself.
The descent into the gulches is always solemn. You canter along a
bright breezy upland, and are suddenly arrested by a precipice, and
from the depths of a forest abyss a low plash or murmur rises, or a
deep bass sound, significant of water which must be crossed, and one
reluctantly leaves the upper air to plunge into heavy shadow, and
each experience increases one's apprehensions concerning the next.
Though in some gulches the kukui preponderates, in others the
lauhala whose aerial roots support it in otherwise impossible
positions, and in others the sombre ohia, yet there were some grand
clefts in which nature has mingled her treasures impartially, and
out of cool depths of ferns rose the feathery coco-palm, the
glorious breadfruit, with its green melon-like fruit, the large
ohia, ideal in its beauty, - the most gorgeous flowering tree I have
ever seen, with spikes of rose-crimson blossoms borne on the old
wood, blazing among its shining many-tinted leafage, - the tall
papaya with its fantastic crown, the profuse gigantic plantain, and
innumerable other trees, shrubs, and lianas, in the beauty and
bounteousness of an endless spring.
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