Personal Narrative Of Travels To The Equinoctial Regions Of America During The Years 1799-1804 - Volume 2 - By Alexander Von Humboldt And Aime Bonpland.
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At All Seasons They Exhibit The Aspect
Of Cascades, And Present The Greatest Obstacles To The Navigation Of
The Orinoco, While The Rapids Of The Ohio And Of Upper Egypt Are
Scarcely Visible At The Period Of Floods.
A solitary cataract, like
Niagara, or the cascade of Terni, affords a grand but single picture,
varying only as the observer changes his place.
Rapids, on the
contrary, especially when adorned with large trees, embellish a
landscape during a length of several leagues. Sometimes the tumultuous
movement of the waters is caused only by extraordinary contractions of
the beds of the rivers. Such is the angostura of Carare, in the river
Magdalena, a strait that impedes communication between Santa Fe de
Bogota and the coast of Carthagena; and such is the pongo of
Manseriche, in the Upper Maranon.
The Orinoco, the Rio Negro, and almost all the confluents of the
Amazon and the Maranon, have falls or rapids, either because they
cross the mountains where they take rise, or because they meet other
mountains in their course. If the Amazon, from the pongo of Manseriche
(or, to speak with more precision, from the pongo of Tayuchuc) as far
as its mouth, a space of more than seven hundred and fifty leagues,
exhibit no tumultuous movement of the waters, the river owes this
advantage to the uniform direction of its course. It flows from west
to east in a vast plain, forming a longitudinal valley between the
mountains of Parima and the great mass of the mountains of Brazil.
I was surprised to find by actual measurement that the rapids of the
Orinoco, the roar of which is heard at the distance of more than a
league, and which are so eminently picturesque from the varied
appearance of the waters, the palm-trees and the rocks, have not
probably, on their whole length, a height of more than twenty-eight
feet perpendicular. In reflecting on this, we find that it is a great
deal for rapids, while it would be very little for a single cataract.
The Yellalas of the Rio Congo, in the contracted part of the river
from Banza Noki as far as Banza Inga, furnish, between the upper and
lower levels, a much more considerable difference; but Mr. Barrow
observes, that among the great number of these rapids there is one
fall, which alone is thirty feet high. On the other hand, the famous
pongos of the river Amazon, so dangerous to go up, the falls of
Rentema, of Escurrebragas, and of Mayasi, are but a few feet in
perpendicular height. Those who are engaged in hydraulic works know
the effect that a bar of eighteen or twenty inches' height produces in
a great river. The whirling and tumultuous movement of the water does
not depend solely on the greatness of partial falls; what determines
the force and impetuosity is the nearness of these falls, the
steepness of the rocky ledges, the returning sheets of water which
strike against and surmount each other, the form of the islands and
shoals, the direction of the counter-currents, and the contraction and
sinuosity of the channels through which the waters force a passage
between two adjacent levels. In two rivers equally large, that of
which the falls have least height may sometimes present the greatest
dangers and the most impetuous movements.
It is probable that the river Orinoco loses part of its waters in the
cataracts, not only by increased evaporation, caused by the dispersion
of minute drops in the atmosphere, but still more by filtrations into
the subterraneous cavities. These losses, however, are not very
perceptible when we compare the mass of waters entering into the
raudal with that which issues out near the mouth of the Rio Anaveni.
It was by a similar comparison that the existence of subterraneous
cavities in the yellalas or rapids of the river Congo was discovered.
The pongo of Manseriche, which ought rather to be called a strait than
a fall, ingulfs, in a manner not yet sufficiently explored, a part of
the waters and all the floating wood of the Upper Maranon.
The spectator, seated on the bank of the Orinoco, with his eyes fixed
on those rocky dikes, is naturally led to inquire whether, in the
lapse of ages, the falls change their form or height. I am not much
inclined to believe in such effects of the shock of water against
blocks of granite, and in the erosion of siliceous matter. The holes
narrowed toward the bottom, the funnels that are discovered in the
raudales, as well as near so many other cascades in Europe, are owing
only to the friction of the sand, and the movement of quartz pebbles.
We saw many such, whirled perpetually by the current at the bottom of
the funnels, and contributing to enlarge them in every direction. The
pongos of the river Amazon are easily destroyed, because the rocky
dikes are not granite, but a conglomerate, or red sandstone with large
fragments. A part of the pongo of Rentama was broken down eighty years
ago, and the course of the waters being interrupted by a new bar, the
bed of the river remained dry for some hours, to the great
astonishment of the inhabitants of the village of Payaya, seven
leagues below the pongo. The Indians of Atures assert (and in this
their testimony is contrary to the opinion of Caulin) that the rocks
of the raudal preserve the same aspect; but that the partial torrents
into which the great river divides itself as it passes through the
heaped blocks of granite, change their direction, and carry sometimes
more, sometimes less water towards one or the other bank; but the
causes of these changes may be very remote from the cataracts, for in
the rivers that spread life over the surface of the globe, as in the
arteries by which it is diffused through organized bodies, all the
movements are propagated to great distances. Oscillations, that at
first seem partial, react on the whole liquid mass contained in the
trunk as well as in its numerous ramifications.
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