On We Paddled, M'bo The Head Man
Standing In The Bows Of The Canoe In Front Of Me, To Steer,
Then I,
then the baggage, then the able-bodied seamen, including the cook
also standing and paddling; and at the
Other extremity of the canoe-
-it grieves me to speak of it in this unseamanlike way, but in these
canoes both ends are alike, and chance alone ordains which is bow
and which is stern - stands Pierre, the first officer, also steering;
the paddles used are all of the long-handled, leaf-shaped Igalwa
type. We get up just past Talagouga Island and then tie up against
the bank of M. Gazenget's plantation, and make a piratical raid on
its bush for poles. A gang of his men come down to us, but only to
chat. One of them, I notice, has had something happen severely to
one side of his face. I ask M'bo what's the matter, and he answers,
with a derisive laugh, "He be fool man, he go for tief plantain and
done got shot." M'bo does not make it clear where the sin in this
affair is exactly located; I expect it is in being "fool man."
Having got our supply of long stout poles we push off and paddle on
again. Before we reach Njole I recognise my crew have got the
grumbles, and at once inquire into the reason. M'bo sadly informs
me that "they no got chop," having been provided only with plantain,
and no meat or fish to eat with it. I promise to get them plenty at
Njole, and contentment settles on the crew, and they sing. After
about three hours we reach Njole, and I proceed to interview the
authorities. Dr. Pelessier is away down river, and the two
gentlemen in charge don't understand English; but Pierre translates,
and the letter which M. Forget has kindly written for me explains
things and so the palaver ends satisfactorily, after a long talk.
First, the official says he does not like to take the responsibility
of allowing me to endanger myself in those rapids. I explain I will
not hold any one responsible but myself, and I urge that a lady has
been up before, a Mme. Quinee. He says "Yes, that is true, but
Madame had with her a husband and many men, whereas I am alone and
have only eight Igalwas and not Adoomas, the proper crew for the
rapids, and they are away up river now with the convoy." "True, oh
King!" I answer, "but Madame Quinee went right up to Lestourville,
whereas I only want to go sufficiently high up the rapids to get
typical fish. And these Igalwas are great men at canoe work, and
can go in a canoe anywhere that any mortal man can go" - this to
cheer up my Igalwa interpreter - "and as for the husband, neither the
Royal Geographical Society's list, in their 'Hints to Travellers,'
nor Messrs. Silver, in their elaborate lists of articles necessary
for a traveller in tropical climates, make mention of husbands."
However, the official ultimately says Yes, I may go, and parts with
me as with one bent on self destruction.
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