And Although We In The Middle Of The
Canoe Did Some Very Spirited Flapping, Our Whirlpool-Breaking Was No
More Successful Than M'bo And Pierre's Fending Off, And Many A Wild
Waltz We Danced That Night With The Waters Of The River Ogowe.
Unpleasant as going through the rapids was, when circumstances took
us into the black current we fared no better.
For good all-round
inconvenience, give me going full tilt in the dark into the branches
of a fallen tree at the pace we were going then - and crash, swish,
crackle and there you are, hung up, with a bough pressing against
your chest, and your hair being torn out and your clothes ribboned
by others, while the wicked river is trying to drag away the canoe
from under you. After a good hour and more of these experiences, we
went hard on to a large black reef of rocks. So firm was the canoe
wedged that we in our rather worn-out state couldn't move her so we
wisely decided to "lef 'em" and see what could be done towards
getting food and a fire for the remainder of the night. Our eyes,
now trained to the darkness, observed pretty close to us a big lump
of land, looming up out of the river. This we subsequently found
out was Kembe Island. The rocks and foam on either side stretched
away into the darkness, and high above us against the star-lit sky
stood out clearly the summits of the mountains of the Sierra del
Cristal.
The most interesting question to us now was whether this rock reef
communicated sufficiently with the island for us to get to it.
Abandoning conjecture; tying very firmly our canoe up to the rocks,
a thing that seemed, considering she was jammed hard and immovable,
a little unnecessary - but you can never be sufficiently careful in
this matter with any kind of boat - off we started among the rock
boulders. I would climb up on to a rock table, fall off it on the
other side on to rocks again, with more or less water on them - then
get a patch of singing sand under my feet, then with varying
suddenness get into more water, deep or shallow, broad or narrow
pools among the rocks; out of that over more rocks, etc., etc.,
etc.: my companions, from their noises, evidently were going in for
the same kind of thing, but we were quite cheerful, because the
probability of reaching the land seemed increasing. Most of us
arrived into deep channels of water which here and there cut in
between this rock reef and the bank, M'bo was the first to find the
way into certainty; he was, and I hope still is, a perfect wonder at
this sort of work. I kept close to M'bo, and when we got to the
shore, the rest of the wanderers being collected, we said "chances
are there's a village round here"; and started to find it.
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