Internally Consigning The Entire
Tribe To Regions Where They Will Get A Rise In Temperature, Even On
This Climate, I Went With Mme.
Forget to M. Gacon, and we talked it
over; finally, M. Gacon thought he could let me have two more
Igalwas from Hatton and Cookson's beach across the river.
Sending
across there we found this could be done, so I now felt I was in for
it, and screwed my courage to the sticking point - no easy matter
after all the information I had got into my mind regarding the
rapids of the River Ogowe.
I establish myself on my portmanteau comfortably in the canoe, my
back is against the trade box, and behind that is the usual mound of
pillows, sleeping mats, and mosquito-bars of the Igalwa crew; the
whole surmounted by the French flag flying from an indifferent
stick.
M. and Mme. Forget provide me with everything I can possibly
require, and say that the blood of half my crew is half alcohol; on
the whole it is patent they don't expect to see me again, and I
forgive them, because they don't seem cheerful over it; but still it
is not reassuring - nothing is about this affair, and it's going to
rain. It does, as we go up the river to Njole, where there is
another risk of the affair collapsing, by the French authorities
declining to allow me to proceed. On we paddled, M'bo the head man
standing in the bows of the canoe in front of me, to steer, then I,
then the baggage, then the able-bodied seamen, including the cook
also standing and paddling; and at the other extremity of the canoe-
-it grieves me to speak of it in this unseamanlike way, but in these
canoes both ends are alike, and chance alone ordains which is bow
and which is stern - stands Pierre, the first officer, also steering;
the paddles used are all of the long-handled, leaf-shaped Igalwa
type. We get up just past Talagouga Island and then tie up against
the bank of M. Gazenget's plantation, and make a piratical raid on
its bush for poles. A gang of his men come down to us, but only to
chat. One of them, I notice, has had something happen severely to
one side of his face. I ask M'bo what's the matter, and he answers,
with a derisive laugh, "He be fool man, he go for tief plantain and
done got shot." M'bo does not make it clear where the sin in this
affair is exactly located; I expect it is in being "fool man."
Having got our supply of long stout poles we push off and paddle on
again. Before we reach Njole I recognise my crew have got the
grumbles, and at once inquire into the reason. M'bo sadly informs
me that "they no got chop," having been provided only with plantain,
and no meat or fish to eat with it. I promise to get them plenty at
Njole, and contentment settles on the crew, and they sing. After
about three hours we reach Njole, and I proceed to interview the
authorities. Dr. Pelessier is away down river, and the two
gentlemen in charge don't understand English; but Pierre translates,
and the letter which M. Forget has kindly written for me explains
things and so the palaver ends satisfactorily, after a long talk.
First, the official says he does not like to take the responsibility
of allowing me to endanger myself in those rapids. I explain I will
not hold any one responsible but myself, and I urge that a lady has
been up before, a Mme. Quinee. He says "Yes, that is true, but
Madame had with her a husband and many men, whereas I am alone and
have only eight Igalwas and not Adoomas, the proper crew for the
rapids, and they are away up river now with the convoy." "True, oh
King!" I answer, "but Madame Quinee went right up to Lestourville,
whereas I only want to go sufficiently high up the rapids to get
typical fish. And these Igalwas are great men at canoe work, and
can go in a canoe anywhere that any mortal man can go" - this to
cheer up my Igalwa interpreter - "and as for the husband, neither the
Royal Geographical Society's list, in their 'Hints to Travellers,'
nor Messrs. Silver, in their elaborate lists of articles necessary
for a traveller in tropical climates, make mention of husbands."
However, the official ultimately says Yes, I may go, and parts with
me as with one bent on self destruction. This affair being settled
I start off, like an old hen with a brood of chickens to provide
for, to get chop for my men, and go first to Hatton and Cookson's
factory. I find its white Agent is down river after stores, and
John Holt's Agent says he has got no beef nor fish, and is precious
short of provisions for himself; so I go back to Dumas', where I
find a most amiable French gentleman, who says he will let me have
as much fish or beef as I want, and to this supply he adds some
delightful bread biscuits. M'bo and the crew beam with
satisfaction; mine is clouded by finding, when they have carried off
the booty to the canoe, that the Frenchman will not let me pay for
it. Therefore taking the opportunity of his back being turned for a
few minutes, I buy and pay for, across the store counter, some trade
things, knives, cloth, etc. Then I say goodbye to the Agent.
"Adieu, Mademoiselle," says he in a for-ever tone of voice. Indeed
I am sure I have caught from these kind people a very pretty and
becoming mournful manner, and there's not another white station for
500 miles where I can show it off. Away we go, still damp from the
rain we have come through, but drying nicely with the day, and
cheerful about the chop.
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