When Eatables Were Found, We Were Almost
Poisoned By Their Cookery:
Their beds were without curtains or
bedstead, and their windows without glass; and for this sort of
entertainment we payed as much as if we had been genteelly
lodged, and sumptuously treated.
I repeat it again; of all the
people I ever knew, the Italians are the most villainously
rapacious. The first day, having passed Civita Castellana, a
small town standing on the top of a hill, we put up at what was
called an excellent inn, where cardinals, prelates, and princes,
often lodged. Being meagre day, there was nothing but bread,
eggs, and anchovies, in the house. I went to bed without supper,
and lay in a pallet, where I was half devoured by vermin. Next
day, our road, in some places, lay along precipices, which over-hang
the Nera or Nar, celebrated in antiquity for its white foam,
and the sulphureous quality of its waters.
Sulfurea nar albus aqua, fontesque velini.
Sulphureous nar, and the Velinian streams.
It is a small, but rapid stream, which runs not far from hence,
into the Tyber. Passing Utricoli, near the ruins of the ancient
Ocriculum, and the romantic town of Narni, situated on the top of
a mountain, in the neighbourhood of which is still seen standing
one arch of the stupendous bridge built by Augustus Caesar, we
arrived at Terni, and hiring a couple of chaises before dinner,
went to see the famous Cascata delle Marmore, which is at the
distance of three miles.
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