Maria Santissima! what shall we do
to purify the house when they are gone?
Innkeeper. - O, as for that matter, we must of course charge it in
the cuenta.
I slept soundly, and rather late in the morning arose and
breakfasted, and paid the bill, in which, by its extravagance, I
found the purification had not been forgotten. The travelling
merchants had departed at daybreak. We now led forth the horses,
and mounted; there were several people at the door staring at us.
"What is the meaning of this?" said I to Antonio.
"It is whispered that we are no Christians," said Antonio; "they
have come to cross themselves at our departure."
In effect, the moment that we rode forward a dozen hands at least
were busied in this evil-averting ceremony. Antonio instantly
turned and crossed himself in the Greek fashion, - much more complex
and difficult than the Catholic.
"Mirad que Santiguo! que Santiguo de los demonios!" {15} exclaimed
many voices, whilst for fear of consequences we hastened away.
The day was exceedingly hot, and we wended our way slowly along the
plains of Old Castile. With all that pertains to Spain, vastness
and sublimity are associated: grand are its mountains, and no less
grand are its plains, which seem of boundless extent, but which are
not tame unbroken flats, like the steppes of Russia. Rough and
uneven ground is continually occurring:
