We Were Informed
Of This, And Loaded Our Arms And Kept Strict Watch On Board Through
The Night, And Were Careful Not To Let The Convicts Get Our Knives
From Us When On Shore.
The worst part of the convicts, I found, were
locked up under sentry in caves dug into the side
Of the mountain,
nearly halfway up, with mule-tracks leading to them, whence they
were taken by day and set to work under task-masters upon building
an aqueduct, a wharf, and other public works; while the rest lived
in the houses which they put up for themselves, had their families
with them, and seemed to me to be the laziest people on the face
of the earth. They did nothing but take a paseo into the woods,
a paseo among the houses, a paseo at the landing-place, looking at
us and our vessel, and too lazy to speak fast; while the others were
driving - or rather, driven - about, at a rapid trot, in single file,
with burdens on their shoulders, and followed up by their task-masters,
with long rods in their hands, and broadbrimmed straw hats upon their
heads. Upon what precise grounds this great distinction was made,
I do not know, and I could not very well know, for the governor was the
only man who spoke English upon the island, and he was out of my walk.
Having filled our casks, we returned on board, and soon after,
the governor, dressed in a uniform like that of an American militia
officer, the Padre, in the dress of the grey friars, with hood
and all complete, and the Capitan, with big whiskers and dirty
regimentals, came on board to dine. While at dinner, a large
ship appeared in the offing, and soon afterwards we saw a light
whale-boat pulling into the harbor. The ship lay off and on,
and a boat came alongside of us, and put on board the captain,
a plain young Quaker, dressed all in brown. The ship was the
Cortes, whaleman, of New Bedford, and had put in to see if there
were any vessels from round the Horn, and to hear the latest news
from America. They remained aboard a short time and had a little
talk with the crew, when they left us and pulled off to their ship,
which, having filled away, was soon out of sight.
A small boat which came from the shore to take away the governor
and suite - as they styled themselves - brought, as a present to the
crew, a large pail of milk, a few shells, and a block of sandal wood.
The milk, which was the first we had tasted since leaving Boston,
we soon despatched; a piece of the sandal wood I obtained, and
learned that it grew on the hills in the centre of the island.
I have always regretted that I did not bring away other specimens
of the products of the island, having afterwards lost all that I
had with me - the piece of sandal wood, and a small flower which I
plucked and brought on board in the crown of my tarpaulin,
and carefully pressed between the leaves of a book.
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