How I Found Livingstone Travels, Adventures And Discoveries In Central Africa Including Four Months Residence With Dr. Livingstone By Sir Henry M. Stanley
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Fortunately The Baggage Was Transferred Without A Single Accident,
And Though The Torrent Was Strong, The Donkeys Were Dragged Through
The Flood By Vigorous Efforts And Much Objurgation Without A
Casualty.
This performance of crossing the Ungerengeri occupied
fully five hours, though energy, abuse, and fury enough were
expended for an army.
Reloading and wringing our clothes dry, we set out from the
horrible neighbourhood of the river, with its reek and filth,
in a northerly direction, following a road which led up to easy
and level ground. Two obtruding hills were thus avoided on our
left, and after passing them we had shut out the view of the
hateful valley.
I always found myself more comfortable and lighthearted while
travelling than when chafing and fretting in camp at delays which
no effort could avoid, and consequently I fear that some things,
while on a march, may be tinted somewhat stronger than their
appearance or merit may properly warrant. But I thought that the
view opening before us was much more agreeable than the valley of
Simbamwenni with all its indescribable fertility. It was a series
of glades opening one after another between forest clumps of young
trees, hemmed in distantly by isolated peaks and scattered
mountains. Now and again, as we crested low eminences we caught
sight of the blue Usagara mountains, bounding the horizon westerly
and northerly, and looked down upon a vast expanse of plain which
lay between.
At the foot of the lengthy slope, well-watered by bubbling
springs and mountain rills, we found a comfortable khambi with
well-made huts, which the natives call Simbo. It lies just two
hours or five miles north-west of the Ungerengeri crossing. The
ground is rocky, composed principally of quartzose detritus swept
down by the constant streams. In the neighbourhood of these grow
bamboo, the thickest of which was about two and a half inches in
diameter; the "myombo," a very shapely tree, with a clean trunk
like an ash, the "imbite," with large, fleshy leaves like the
"mtamba," sycamore, plum-tree, the "ugaza," ortamarisk, and the
"mgungu," a tree containing several wide branches with small
leaves clustered together in a clump, and the silk-cotton tree.
Though there are no villages or settlements in view of Simbo
Khambi, there are several clustered within the mountain folds,
inhabited by Waseguhha somewhat prone to dishonest acts and
murder.
The long broad plain visible from the eminences crossed between
the Ungerengeri and Simbo was now before us, and became known to
sorrowful memory subsequently, as the Makata Valley. The initial
march was from Simbo, its terminus at Rehenneko, at the base of the
Usagara mountains, six marches distant. The valley commences with
broad undulations, covered with young forests of bamboo, which grow
thickly along the streams, the dwarf fan-palm, the stately Palmyra,
and the mgungu. These undulations soon become broken by gullies
containing water, nourishing dense crops of cane reeds and broad-
bladed grass, and, emerging from this district, wide savannah
covered with tall grass open into view, with an isolated tree here
and there agreeably breaking the monotony of the scene. The Makata
is a wilderness containing but one village of the Waseguhha
throughout its broad expanse. Venison, consequently, abounds
within the forest clumps, and the kudu, hartebeest, antelope,
and zebra may be seen at early dawn emerging into the open
savannahs to feed. At night, the cyn-hyaena prowls about with
its hideous clamour seeking for sleeping prey, man or beast.
The slushy mire of the savannahs rendered marching a work of great
difficulty; its tenacious hold of the feet told terribly on men
and animals. A ten-mile march required ten hours, we were
therefore compelled to camp in the middle of this wilderness, and
construct a new khambi, a measure which was afterwards adopted by
half a dozen caravans.
The cart did not arrive until nearly midnight, and with it,
besides three or four broken-down pagazis, came Bombay with the
dolorous tale, that having put his load - consisting of the property
tent, one large American axe, his two uniform coats, his shirts,
beads and cloth, powder, pistol, and hatchet - on the ground, to go
and assist the cart out of a quagmire, he had returned to the place
where he had left it and could not find it, that he believed that
some thieving Washensi, who always lurk in the rear of caravans to
pick up stragglers, had decamped with it. Which dismal tale told
me at black midnight was not received at all graciously, but rather
with most wrathful words, all of which the penitent captain received
as his proper due. Working myself into a fury,, I enumerated his
sins to him; he had lost a goat at Muhalleh, he had permitted
Khamisi to desert with valuable property at Imbiki; he had
frequently shown culpable negligence in not looking after the
donkeys, permitting them to be tied up at night without seeing that
they had water, and in the mornings, when about to march, he
preferred to sleep until 7 o'clock, rather than wake up early and
saddle the donkeys, that we might start at 6 o'clock; he had shown
of late great love for the fire, cowering like a bloodless man
before it, torpid and apathetic; he had now lost the property-tent
in the middle of the Masika season, by which carelessness the cloth
bales would rot and become valueless; he had lost the axe which
I should want at Ujiji to construct my boat; and finally, he had
lost a pistol and hatchet, and a flaskful of the best powder.
Considering all these things, how utterly incompetent he was to
be captain, I would degrade him from his office and appoint
Mabruki Burton instead. Uledi, also, following the example of
Bombay, instead of being second captain, should give no orders
to any soldiers in future, but should himself obey those given
by Mabruki - the said Mabruki being worth a dozen Bombays, and
two dozen Uledis; and so he was dismissed with orders to return
at daylight to find the tent, axe, pistol, powder, and hatchet.
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