How I Found Livingstone Travels, Adventures And Discoveries In Central Africa Including Four Months Residence With Dr. Livingstone By Sir Henry M. Stanley
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The Next Morning The Caravan, Thoroughly Fatigued With The Last
Day's Exertions, Was Obliged To Halt.
Bombay was despatched after
the lost goods; Kingaru, Mabruki the Great, and Mabruki the Little
were despatched to bring back three doti-worth of grain, on which
we were to subsist in the wilderness.
Three days passed away and we were still at camp, awaiting, with
what patience we possessed, the return of the soldiers. In the
meantime provisions ran very low, no game could be procured, the
birds were so wild. Two days shooting procured but two potfuls
of birds, consisting of grouse, quail, and pigeons. Bombay returned
unsuccessfully from his search after the missing property, and
suffered deep disgrace.
On the fourth day I despatched Shaw with two more soldiers, to see
what had become of Kingaru and the two Mabrukis. Towards night he
returned completely prostrated, with a violent attack of the
mukunguru, or ague; but bringing the missing soldiers, who were
thus left to report for themselves.
With most thankful hearts did we quit our camp, where so much
anxiety of mind and fretfulness had been suffered, not heeding a
furious rain, which, after drenching us all night, might have
somewhat damped our ardor for the march under other circumstances.
The road for the first mile led over reddish ground, and was
drained by gentle slopes falling east and west; but, leaving the
cover of the friendly woods, on whose eastern margin we had been
delayed so long, we emerged into one of the savannahs, whose soil
during the rain is as soft as slush and tenacious as thick mortar,
where we were all threatened with the fate of the famous Arkansas
traveller, who had sunk so low in one of the many quagmires in
Arkansas county, that nothing but his tall "stove-pipe" hat was
left visible.
Shaw was sick, and the whole duty of driving the foundering
caravan devolved upon myself. The Wanyamwezi donkeys stuck in
the mire as if they were rooted to it. As fast as one was flogged
from his stubborn position, prone to the depths fell another,
giving me a Sisyphean labour, which was maddening trader pelting
rain, assisted by such men as Bombay and Uledi, who could not for
a whole skin's sake stomach the storm and mire. Two hours of such
a task enabled me to drag my caravan over a savannah one mile and
a half broad; and barely had I finished congratulating myself over
my success before I was halted by a deep ditch, which, filled with
rain-water from the inundated savannahs, had become a considerable
stream, breast-deep, flowing swiftly into the Makata. Donkeys had
to be unloaded, led through a torrent, and loaded again on the other
bank - an operation which consumed a full hour.
Presently, after straggling through a wood clump, barring our
progress was another stream, swollen into a river. The bridge
being swept away, we were obliged to swim and float our baggage
over, which delayed us two hours more. Leaving this second
river-bank, we splashed, waded, occasionally half-swimming, and
reeled through mire, water-dripping grass and matama stalks,
along the left bank of the Makata proper, until farther progress
was effectually prevented for that day by a deep bend of the
river, which we should be obliged to cross the next day.
Though but six miles were traversed during that miserable day, the
march occupied ten hours.
Half dead with fatigue, I yet could feel thankful that it was not
accompanied by fever, which it seemed a miracle to avoid; for if
ever a district was cursed with the ague, the Makata wilderness
ranks foremost of those afflicted. Surely the sight of the
dripping woods enveloped in opaque mist, of the inundated country
with lengthy swathes of tiger-grass laid low by the turbid flood,
of mounds of decaying trees and canes, of the swollen river and the
weeping sky, was enough to engender the mukunguru! The well-used
khambi, and the heaps of filth surrounding it, were enough to
create a cholera!
The Makata, a river whose breadth during the dry season is but
forty feet, in the Masika season assumes the breadth, depth, and
force of an important river. Should it happen to be an unusually
rainy season, it inundates the great plain which stretches on
either side, and converts it into a great lake. It is the main
feeder of the Wami river, which empties into the sea between the
ports of Saadani and Whinde. About ten miles north-east of the
Makata crossing, the Great Makata, the Little Makata, a nameless
creek, and the Rudewa river unite; and the river thus formed
becomes known as the Wami. Throughout Usagara the Wami is known
as the Mukondokwa. Three of these streams take their rise from
the crescent-like Usagara range, which bounds the Makata plain south
and south-westerly; while the Rudewa rises in the northern horn of
the same range.
So swift was the flow of the Makata, and so much did its unsteady
bridge, half buried in the water, imperil the safety of the
property, that its transfer from bank to bank occupied fully five
hours. No sooner had we landed every article on the other side,
undamaged by the water, than the rain poured down in torrents
that drenched them all, as if they had been dragged through the
river. To proceed through the swamp which an hour's rain had
formed was utterly out of the question. We were accordingly
compelled to camp in a place where every hour furnished its quota
of annoyance. One of the Wangwana soldiers engaged at Bagamoyo,
named Kingaru, improved an opportunity to desert with another
Mgwana's kit. My two detectives, Uledi (Grant's valet), and
Sarmean, were immediately despatched in pursuit, both being armed
with American breech-loaders. They went about their task with
an adroitness and celerity which augured well for their success.
In an hour they returned with the runaway, having found him hidden
in the house of a Mseguhha chief called Kigondo, who lived about
a mile from the eastern bank of the river, and who had accompanied
Uledi and Sarmean to receive his reward, and render an account of
the incident.
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