How I Found Livingstone Travels, Adventures And Discoveries In Central Africa Including Four Months Residence With Dr. Livingstone By Sir Henry M. Stanley
- Page 39 of 160 - First - Home
As Jako Was The Only One Who Could Speak English, Except Bombay
And Selim, Jako Was Appointed, And The Chief
Leucole was satisfied.
Six months' provisions of white beads, Merikani and Kaniki cloth,
together with two doti of handsome cloth
To serve as a present to
Leucole after his recovery, were taken to Farquhar by Bombay,
together with a Starr's carbine, 300 rounds of cartridge, a set of
cooking pots, and 3 lbs. of tea.
Abdullah bin Nasib, who was found encamped here with five hundred
pagazis, and a train of Arab and Wasawahili satellites, who
revolved around his importance, treated me in somewhat the same
manner that Hamed bin Sulayman treated Speke at Kasenge. Followed
by his satellites, he came (a tall nervous-looking man, of fifty
or thereabouts) to see me in my camp, and asked me if I wished to
purchase donkeys. As all my animals were either sick or moribund,
I replied very readily in the affirmative, upon which he
graciously said he would sell me as many as I wanted, and for
payment I could give him a draft on Zanzibar. I thought him a very
considerate and kind person, fully justifying the encomiums
lavished on him in Burton's `Lake Regions of Central Africa,' and
accordingly I treated him with the consideration due to so great
and good a man. The morrow came, and with it went Abdullah bin
Nasib, or "Kisesa," as he is called by the Wanyamwezi, with all his
pagazis, his train of followers, and each and every one of his
donkeys, towards Bagamoyo, without so much as giving a "Kwaheri,"
or good-bye.
At this place there are generally to be found from ten to thirty
pagazis awaiting up-caravans. I was fortunate enough to secure
twelve good people, who, upon my arrival at Unyanyembe, without
an exception, voluntarily engaged themselves as carriers to Ujiji.
With the formidable marches of Marenga Mkali in front, I felt
thankful for this happy windfall,, which resolved the difficulties
I had been anticipating; for I had but ten donkeys left, and four
of these were so enfeebled that they were worthless as baggage
animals.
Mpwapwa - so called by the Arabs, who have managed to corrupt almost
every native word - is called "Mbambwa" by the Wasagara. It is a
mountain range rising over 6,000 feet above the sea, bounding on
the north the extensive plain which commences at Ugombo lake, and
on the east that part of the plain which is called Marenga Mkali,
which stretches away beyond the borders of Uhumba. Opposite
Mpwapwa, at the distance of thirty miles or so, rises the Anak
peak of Rubeho, with several other ambitious and tall brethren
cresting long lines of rectilinear scarps, which ascend from the
plain of Ugombo and Marenga Mkali as regularly as if they had
been chiselled out by the hands of generations of masons and
stonecutters.
Upon looking at Mpwapwa's greenly-tinted slopes, dark with many
a densely-foliaged tree; its many rills flowing sweet and clear,
nourishing besides thick patches of gum and thorn bush, giant
sycamore and parachute-topped mimosa, and permitting my
imagination to picture sweet views behind the tall cones above,
I was tempted to brave the fatigue of an ascent to the summit.
Nor was my love for the picturesque disappointed. One sweep of the
eyes embraced hundreds of square miles of plain and mountain, from
Ugombo Peak away to distant Ugogo, and from Rubeho and Ugogo to
the dim and purple pasture lands of the wild, untamable Wahumba.
The plain of Ugombo and its neighbour of Marenga Mkali, apparently
level as a sea, was dotted here and there with "hillocks dropt in
Nature's careless haste," which appeared like islands amid the dun
and green expanse. Where the jungle was dense the colour was green,
alternating with dark brown; where the plain appeared denuded of
bush and brake it had a whity-brown appearance, on which the
passing clouds now and again cast their deep shadows. Altogether
this side of the picture was not inviting; it exhibited too
plainly the true wilderness in its sternest aspect; but perhaps
the knowledge that in the bosom of the vast plain before me there
was not one drop of water but was bitter as nitre, and undrinkable
as urine, prejudiced me against it, The hunter might consider it
a paradise, for in its depths were all kinds of game to attract his
keenest instincts; but to the mere traveller it had a stern outlook.
Nearer, however, to the base of the Mpwapwa the aspect of the plain
altered. At first the jungle thinned, openings in the wood
appeared, then wide and naked clearings, then extensive fields of
the hardy holcus, Indian corn, and maweri or bajri, with here and
there a square tembe or village. Still nearer ran thin lines of
fresh young grass, great trees surrounded a patch of alluvial
meadow. A broad river-bed, containing several rivulets of water,
ran through the thirsty fields, conveying the vivifying element
which in this part of Usagara was so scarce and precious. Down
to the river-bed sloped the Mpwapwa, roughened in some places by
great boulders of basalt, or by rock masses, which had parted from
a precipitous scarp, where clung the kolquall with a sure hold,
drawing nourishment where every other green thing failed; clad in
others by the hardy mimosa, which rose like a sloping bank of
green verdure almost to the summit. And, happy sight to me so
long a stranger to it, there were hundreds of cattle grazing,
imparting a pleasing animation to the solitude of the deep folds
of the mountain range.
But the fairest view was obtained by looking northward towards the
dense group of mountains which buttressed the front range, facing
towards Rubeho. It was the home of the winds, which starting here
and sweeping down the precipitous slopes and solitary peaks on the
western side, and gathering strength as they rushed through the
prairie-like Marenga Mkali, howled through Ugogo and Unyamwezi with
the force of a storm, It was also the home of the dews, where
sprang the clear springs which cheered by their music the bosky
dells below, and enriched the populous district of Mpwapwa.
One felt better, stronger, on this breezy height, drinking in the
pure air and feasting the eyes on such a varied landscape as it
presented, on spreading plateaus green as lawns, on smooth rounded
tops, on mountain vales containing recesses which might charm a
hermit's soul, on deep and awful ravines where reigned a twilight
gloom, on fractured and riven precipices, on huge fantastically-worn
boulders which overtopped them, on picturesque tracts which
embraced all that was wild, and all that was poetical in Nature.
Enter page number
PreviousNext
Page 39 of 160
Words from 38936 to 40066
of 163520