About Three Miles And A Half From The Tent, A Large Arm
Extended From The North Bank To A Considerable
Distance on that side;
the banks continually getting lower, and before we had gone six miles it
was evident that
The channel of the stream was only the bed of a lagoon,
the current now being imperceptible, with small gum trees growing in the
middle. Three miles farther the morasses closed upon us, and rendered
all farther progress impossible. The water was here stagnant. The large
trees that used to be met with in such numbers up the stream were
entirely lost, a few diminutive gums being the only timber to be seen:
the height of the bank from the water-line was three feet six inches;
and the marks of floods on the trunks of the trees rose to the height of
four feet six inches, being about one foot above the level of the
surrounding marshes. It would appear that the water is frequently
stationary at that height for a considerable time, as long moss and
other marks of stagnant waters were remaining on the trunks and roots of
the trees, and on the long-leaved acacia, which was here a strong plant.
There could not be above three feet water in this part of the lagoon, as
small bushes and tufts of tea grass were perceptible. The water was
extremely muddy, and the odour arising from the banks and marshes was
offensive in the extreme. There were only four different kinds of plants
at this terminating point of our journey, viz. the small eucalyptus, the
long-leaved acacia, the large tea grass, and a new diaeceous plant which
covered the marshes, named polygonum junceum. It is possible that the
bed of the lagoon might extend eight or ten miles farther, but I do not
think it did, as the horizon was perfectly clear in all directions, a
few bushes and acacia trees, marking the course of the lagoon, excepted.
Had there been any hill or even small eminence within thirty or forty
miles of me they must now have been discovered, but there was not the
least appearance of any such, and it was with infinite regret and pain
that I was forced to come to the conclusion, that the interior of this
vast country is a marsh and uninhabitable. How near these marshes may
approach the south-western coast, I know not; but I do not think that the
range of high and dry land in that quarter extends back north-easterly
for any great distance; it being known, that the coast from Cape
Bernouilli to the head of Spencer's Gulf is sandy and destitute of
water. [Note: The view from the top of Mount Brown (in lat. 32. 30. 15.
S.
and lon. 138. 0. 3/4. E. head of Spencer's Gulf) was very extensive,
its elevation not being less than three thousand feet; but neither
rivers nor lakes could be perceived, nor any thing of the sea to the
south-eastward. In almost every direction the eye traversed over an
uninterruptedly flat woody country, the sole exceptions being the ridge
of mountains, extending north and south; and the water of the gulf to
the south-westward. Flinder's Voy. Vol. I. p. 159.]
Perhaps there is no river, the history of which is known, that presents
so remarkable a termination as the present: its course in a straight
line from its source to its termination exceeds five hundred miles, and
including its windings, it may fairly be calculated to run at least
twelve hundred miles; during all which passage, through such a vast
extent
of country, it does not receive a single stream in addition to what it
derives from its sources in the eastern mountains.
I think it a probable conjecture that this river is the channel by which
all the waters rising in those ranges of hills to the westward of Port
Jackson, known by the name of the Blue Mountains, and which do not fall
into the sea on the east coast, are conveyed to these immense inland
marshes; its sinuous course causing it to overflow its banks on a much
higher level than the present, and in consequence, forming those low wet
levels which are in the very neighbourhood of the government depot. Its
length of course is, in my opinion, the principal cause of our finding
any thing like a stream for the last one hundred miles, as the immense
body of water which must undoubtedly be at times collected in such a
river must find a vent somewhere, but being spent during so long a
course without any accession, the only wonder is, that even those waters
should cause a current at so great a distance from their source;
everything however indicates, as before often observed, that in dry
seasons the channel of the river is empty, or forms only a chain of
ponds. It appears to have been a considerable length of time since the
banks were overflowed, certainly not for the last year; and I think it
probable they are not often so: the quantity of water must indeed be
immense, and of long accumulation, in the upper marshes, before the
whole of this vast country can be under water.
My intention to penetrate farther westward being thus frustrated, I
returned to the tent about three o'clock, and determined, should the
horses appear sufficiently recovered and refreshed, finally to quit
this western part of the country on Thursday next; a few days rain
would prevent us from ever quitting it, but we have been bountifully
favoured by Providence with a season of continued fair and pleasant
weather, which could hardly have been expected, and which alone could
have enabled us to decide so satisfactorily, if it can be called
satisfaction to prove the negative of the existence of any navigable
rivers in this part of Australia.
July 8. - Observed the sun's magnetic amplitude in rising from the clear
horizon of the plain, a circumstance that rarely can occur in any
country unless such a one as the present; it strongly marks the.
horizontal level which seems to run now from east to west.
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