How
Little Had We Thought, During The Day Spent So Pleasantly Upon The
Rhone, That A Fiat Had Passed Which Doomed One Of The Party To An
Untimely And Violent Death!
Our spirits, which had been of the gayest
nature, were damped by this incident, which recurred to our minds
again and again, and we were continually recollecting some trifling
circumstance which had prepossessed us in favour of the family, thus
suddenly overwhelmed by so distressing an event.
A couple of hours brought us to Arles, where we arrived before the
town was astir; the steamer to Marseilles did not leave the quay until
twelve o'clock, and we were tantalized by the idea of the excellent
night's rest we might have had if the steamer had fulfilled its
agreement to go on to Arles. The Marseilles boat, though a fine vessel
of its class, was better calculated for the conveyance of merchandize
than of passengers; there being only one cabin, and no possibility of
procuring any refreshment on board. This is the more inconvenient,
as there is danger in bad weather of the passage into the harbour of
Marseilles being retarded for several hours. We now lamented having
slighted an invitation to comfortable quarters in Avignon, which we
found on board the Lyons steamer, printed upon a large card.
We were much pleased with what we saw of Arles; it is a clean,
well-built town, the streets generally rather narrow, but the houses
good. In walking about, we found many of the outer doors open, and
neat-looking female servants employed in sweeping the halls and
entries. With what I hope may be deemed a pardonable curiosity, we
peeped and sometimes stepped into these interiors, and were gratified
by the neatness and even elegance which they exhibited. We found the
people remarkably civil, and apparently too much accustomed to English
travellers to trouble themselves about us. The hotel was not of the
best class, and we only saw some very inferior cafes, consisting
of one small room, with a curtain before the open door, and on the
outside a rude representation, on a board, of a coffee-pot, and a
cup and saucer. All the shops at Arles had curtains at the doors,
a peculiarity which we had not previously observed in the towns of
France. We went into a handsome church, where we found a few people,
principally beggars, at prayers, and leaving a small donation in the
poor-box, beguiled the time by walking and sitting in the boulevard
of the town.
We were glad to embark at twelve o'clock, and soon afterwards we were
again in motion. The Rhone is at this place a fine broad stream; but
its banks were less interesting than those which we had passed the
previous day. We came at length to a large tract of low land, washed
on the other side by the Mediterranean, which we were told was
tenanted by troops of wild horses, known by their being invariably
white. There were certainly many horses to be seen, and amongst them
numerous white ones; but they appeared to be exceedingly tame, and had
probably only been turned out for the benefit of grazing on the salt
marsh. Possibly there might be some difficulty in catching them in so
large a plain, perfectly unenclosed, and they might have bred in these
solitudes. There were also some very peaceable-looking donkeys to
be seen, and now and then a few cows. We did not perceive any human
habitations until we came to the extreme point, where one or two low,
dreary-looking tenements had been raised.
The view for the last hour had been magnificent, extending over a
splendid country to the lower Alps, and now Marseilles appeared in the
distance, spread upon the side of a hill down to the water, and
its environs stretching far and wide, villas and country mansions
appearing in every direction. Upon entering the Mediterranean, we were
struck by the line of demarcation which kept the green waters of the
Rhone and the deep dark blue of the sea perfectly distinct from each
other, there being no blending of tints. Here we were delighted by the
appearance of a shoal of large fish, which were seen springing out of
the water; several approached the steamer, gamboling about in the most
beautiful manner possible, darting along close to the surface, and
then making long leaps with their bodies in the air. One of our
fellow-passengers, a German, with whom we had made acquaintance,
hastened to fetch a gun; but, much to our joy, it missed fire in
several attempts to discharge it at the beautiful creatures which had
thus amused us with their sports. How strong must be the destructive
propensity, when it leads men to wanton acts of barbarity like this;
since, had a hundred fish been killed, there would have been no
possibility of getting one on board, and the slaughter must merely
have been perpetrated for slaughter's sake! Our remonstrances passed
unheeded, and we therefore did not conceal our rejoicing over the
disappointment.
The entrance into Marseilles is very picturesque, it being guarded on
either side by high rocks, bold, and projecting in various shapes. We
found the harbour crowded with vessels of various denominations, and
amongst them several steamers, one a French ship of war, and another
the English Government steamer, appointed to carry the mails to Malta.
The smell arising from the stagnant water in the harbour of Marseilles
was at first almost intolerable, and it was not without surprise that
we saw several gay gondola-looking boats, with white and coloured
awnings, filled with ladies and gentlemen, rowing about apparently for
pleasure.
The clock struck five as we got on shore, and, much to our annoyance,
we found that our first visit was to be paid to the customhouse. Upon
embarking at Arles, a gens-d'armes had laid his finger upon our
baggage, and demanded our keys; but upon a remonstrance at the
absurdity of a re-examination, after it had passed through the whole
of France, he allowed it to be put on board inviolate.
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