Here, However,
There Was No Escaping, And, Tired As We Were, And Anxious To Get To
Our Hotel, We Were Obliged To Submit To The Delay.
Fortunately, we
were the first arrivals, and the search not being very strict, we were
not detained more than ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour, which,
under the circumstances, seemed an age.
The nearest hotel was of course
our place of refuge, and we were fortunate in speedily ending a very
good one, the Hotel des Embassadeurs, an immense establishment,
exceedingly well-conducted in every respect. Here we enjoyed the prospect
of a night's rest, having, during a hundred and ten hours, only had about
ten, at two different periods, in bed. Refreshed, however, by a change
of dress, we had no inclination to anticipate the period of repose, but
hurried our toilet, in order to join the dinner at the table-d'hote.
Marseilles struck us as being the handsomest and the cleanest town we
had yet seen in France. All the houses are spacious and lofty, built
of white stone, and in good condition, while every portion of the city
is well paved, either after the English fashion, or with brick, quite
even, and inserted in a very tasteful manner. Many of the streets
are extremely wide, and some are adorned with handsome fountains.
The shops are very elegant, and much more decorated than those of any
other place in France; some had paintings upon glass, richly gilded,
on either side of the doors, handsome curtains hung down within, and
the merchandise displayed was of the best description. These shops
were also well lighted, and together with the brilliant illuminations
of the neighbouring cafes, gave the streets a very gay appearance.
We wandered about until rather a late hour; the cafes, both inside
and outside, were crowded with gentlemen; but in the promenades we
saw fewer ladies than we had expected, and came to the conclusion - an
erroneous one in all probability - that French women stay very much at
home. Assuredly, the beauty of the night was most inviting; but, worn
out at last, we were obliged to retire to our hotel.
The next day, we made inquiries concerning the steamers, and
learned that the French boat was certainly to start on the following
afternoon, the 21st, while the departure of the English vessel
was uncertain, depending upon the arrival of the mails. Though
disappointed at finding that the French steamer did not touch at
Naples, as I had been led to believe, I felt inclined to take my
passage in her; but the advantage of being in time to meet the Bombay
steamer at Suez was so strongly urged upon me, in consequence of the
ticklish state of affairs in Egypt, that, finding plenty of room on
board the Niagara, we engaged a couple of berths in the ladies'
cabins. Mehemet Ali was represented to us as being so obstinately
determined to retain possession of the Turkish fleet, and the British
Government so urgent with France to support the Porte against him,
that, if this intelligence was to be depended upon, no time ought to
be lost. It was with reluctance that I gave up my original intention
of lingering on the road, and at Malta, but my unwillingness to run
any risk of being shut out of Egypt prevailed. After executing this
necessary business, we engaged a carriage, and paying a visit to the
British consul, drove about the town and its environs, being the more
pleased the more we saw of both. There appeared to be a deficiency of
trees in the landscape, but a peculiar air of its own compensated for
the want of foliage.
The private streets and houses of Marseilles are very regular and
well built, nor did we see any portion of the town of a very inferior
description. I should have liked much to have remained a few weeks in
it, and indeed regretted the rapidity of my journey through France,
not being able to imagine any thing more delightful than a leisure
survey of the country through which we passed. I had been so strongly
determined to make the overland trip to India, that I would have
undertaken it quite alone, had I not met with a party to accompany me;
some kind friends would not allow me, however, to make the experiment;
nor do I recommend ladies, unless they are very well acquainted
with the country, to travel through it without the protection of a
gentleman, a courier, or a good servant. Miss E. and myself performed
the whole distance without a care or a thought beyond the objects on
the road; but this we owed entirely to the attention of the gentleman
who put us safely on board the Malta steamer, and who managed every
thing for us upon the way, so that we were never in one single
instance subjected to the slightest annoyance.
CHAPTER III.
* * * * *
MARSEILLES TO ALEXANDRIA.
* * * * *
Venations at the Custom-house - Embarkation on the Malta
Steamer - Difficulties of exit from the Harbour - Storm - Disagreeable
Motion of the Steam-vessel - Passengers - Arrival at Malta - Description
of the City - Vehicles - Dress of the Maltese Women - State of
Society - Church of St. John - The Palace - The Cemetery of the Capuchin
Convent - Intolerance of the Roman Catholic Priesthood - Shops,
Cafes, and Hotels - Manufactures and Products of Malta - Heat of
the Island - Embarkation on board an English Government
Steamer - Passengers - A young Egyptian - Arrival at Alexandria - Turkish
and Egyptian Fleets - Aspect of the City from the Sea - Landing.
At twelve o'clock on the morning of the 21st of September, we were
informed that the English Government-mails had not arrived, and that
the probabilities were in favour of their not reaching Marseilles
until five o'clock; in which event, the steamer could not leave the
harbour that night. We, therefore, anticipated another day in our
pleasant quarters; but thought it prudent to take our baggage
on board. Upon getting down to the quay, we were stopped by a
gens-d'armes, who desired to have our keys, which we of course
immediately surrendered.
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