These instances shew the sauciness of the vulgar, and are a fair example
of the conduct of the Moors. I am told by Barbary Jews, it would be next
to impossible for a Christian to walk without disguise in broad daylight
at Fez. Not so much from the hostility of the populace, as from their
indecent and vehement curiosity. However, in these cases, I am obliged
to give the testimony of others. Mr. Cohen, when travelling through the
interior, assumes the character of a quack doctor, the best passport in
all these countries. Practising as he goes, he manages to get enough to
bear his charges on the way.
Oliver Goldsmith piped, but in Morocco the traveller and stranger
physics his way. To Europeans, Mr. Cohen gives this advice - "Never to
stay more than one night at any place." "Mr. Davidson," he says,
"stopped so long at Wadnoun, that all the Desert, as far as Timbuctoo,
heard of his projects and travels, and were determined to waylay and
plunder him."
But, on the contrary, with respect to my own experience in the Desert,
the people appeared equally hostile or offended at my taking them by
surprise. Desert travelling after all is mostly an affair of luck. Six
travellers might be sent to Timbuctoo and three return, and three be
murdered, and yet the three who were murdered might have been as prudent
and as skilful as the three who were successful. The Maroquine
Government often shew a perfect Chinese jealousy of Europeans travelling
in the interior. When Doctor Willshire, brother of the Consul, returned
from Morocco, the Government gave orders that "he should be taken
directly to Mogador, and not be allowed to turn to the right hand or to
the left, to collect old stones or herbs." This lynx-eyed government
imagined they saw in Doctor Willshire's botanical and mineralogical
rambles, a design of spying out the powers and resources of the country.
The consentaneous progress of Morocco in the universal movement of the
age, is argued by the merchants from an increased use of chairs, and
knives and forks. Some years ago, scarcely a knife and fork, or a chair
was to be found in this part of Morocco. Now, almost every house in the
Jewish quarter has them. The Jew of Barbary can use them with less
scruple than the orthodox Tory Moor, who sets his face like flint
against all changes, because his European brethren adopt them. Many
innovations of this domestic sort are introduced from Europe into North
Africa through the instrumentality of native Jews. Tea has become an
article Of universal consumption. It is, indeed, the wine of the
Maroquine Mussulmen. [20] Even in remote provinces, amongst Bebers and
Bedouins, the most miserable looking and living of people the finest
green tea is to be found.
You enter a miserable looking hut, when you are amazed by the hostess
unlocking an old box, and taking out a choice tea service, cups,
saucers, tea-pot, and tea-tray, often of white china with gilt edges.
These, after use, are always kept locked up, as objects of most precious
value.
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