These instances shew the sauciness of the vulgar, and are a fair example
of the conduct of the Moors. I am told by Barbary Jews, it would be next
to impossible for a Christian to walk without disguise in broad daylight
at Fez. Not so much from the hostility of the populace, as from their
indecent and vehement curiosity. However, in these cases, I am obliged
to give the testimony of others. Mr. Cohen, when travelling through the
interior, assumes the character of a quack doctor, the best passport in
all these countries. Practising as he goes, he manages to get enough to
bear his charges on the way.
Oliver Goldsmith piped, but in Morocco the traveller and stranger
physics his way. To Europeans, Mr. Cohen gives this advice - "Never to
stay more than one night at any place." "Mr. Davidson," he says,
"stopped so long at Wadnoun, that all the Desert, as far as Timbuctoo,
heard of his projects and travels, and were determined to waylay and
plunder him."
But, on the contrary, with respect to my own experience in the Desert,
the people appeared equally hostile or offended at my taking them by
surprise. Desert travelling after all is mostly an affair of luck. Six
travellers might be sent to Timbuctoo and three return, and three be
murdered, and yet the three who were murdered might have been as prudent
and as skilful as the three who were successful. The Maroquine
Government often shew a perfect Chinese jealousy of Europeans travelling
in the interior. When Doctor Willshire, brother of the Consul, returned
from Morocco, the Government gave orders that "he should be taken
directly to Mogador, and not be allowed to turn to the right hand or to
the left, to collect old stones or herbs." This lynx-eyed government
imagined they saw in Doctor Willshire's botanical and mineralogical
rambles, a design of spying out the powers and resources of the country.
The consentaneous progress of Morocco in the universal movement of the
age, is argued by the merchants from an increased use of chairs, and
knives and forks. Some years ago, scarcely a knife and fork, or a chair
was to be found in this part of Morocco. Now, almost every house in the
Jewish quarter has them. The Jew of Barbary can use them with less
scruple than the orthodox Tory Moor, who sets his face like flint
against all changes, because his European brethren adopt them. Many
innovations of this domestic sort are introduced from Europe into North
Africa through the instrumentality of native Jews. Tea has become an
article Of universal consumption. It is, indeed, the wine of the
Maroquine Mussulmen. [20] Even in remote provinces, amongst Bebers and
Bedouins, the most miserable looking and living of people the finest
green tea is to be found.
You enter a miserable looking hut, when you are amazed by the hostess
unlocking an old box, and taking out a choice tea service, cups,
saucers, tea-pot, and tea-tray, often of white china with gilt edges.
These, after use, are always kept locked up, as objects of most precious
value. The sugar is put in the tea-pot, and the Moors and Jews usually
drink their tea so sweet that it may be called syrup. But if any lady
tries the plan of melting the sugar while the tea is brewing in the
tea-pot, she will find the tea so prepared has acquired a different, and
not disagreeable flavour.
Morocco has its fashions and manias as well as Europe. House building is
now the rage. They say it is not so easy for the Sultan to fleece the
people of their property when it consists of houses. Almost every
distinguished Moor in the interior has built, or is building himself a
spacious house. This mania is happily a useful one, and must advance the
comfort and sanitary improvement of the people. It is as good as a
Health of Towns Bill for them.
The merchants having all returned from Morocco, I shall give some
account of their visit to the Emperor. The ancient rule of imperial
residence was, that the Sultan should sojourn six months in Fez, and six
months in Morocco, the former the northern, and the latter the southern
capital. This is not adhered to strictly, the Emperor taking up his
abode at one capital or the other, and sometimes at Micknos, according
to his caprice. He never fails, however, to visit Morocco once a year,
on account of its neighbourhood to Mogador, his much loved, and
beautiful commercial city. The Emperor himself, before his accession to
the throne, was the administrator of the customhouse of this city, where
he has acquired his commercial tastes and habits of business, which he
has cultivated from the very commencement of his reign. When the Emperor
resides in the South, he receives visits from the merchants of Mogador.
These visits are imperative on the merchants, if they are his imperial
debtors, or even if they wish to maintain a friendly feeling with his
government. Upon an average, the visits or deputations of merchants,
take place every three or four years; more frequently they cannot well
be, because they cost the merchants immense sums in presents, each often
giving to the value of three or four thousand dollars. In return, they
receive additional and prolonged credits.
The number of Imperial merchants is about twenty, three of whom are
Englishmen, Messrs. Willshire, Elton, and Robertson. Most of the rest
are Barbary Jews. [21]
There is a Belgian merchant who did not go with these. This gentleman,
owing nothing to the Emperor, preferred to pay duty on shipping his
merchandize, on which by payment of ready money, he gets 25 per cent
discount. This plan, however, does not enable him to compete with the
Imperial merchants, whose duties accumulate till they are years and
years in arrear. And when these arrears have gone on increasing till
there is no chance of payment, the Emperor, in order to keep up his
firms of enslaved merchants, will rather remit half or more of the debt,
in consideration of a handsome present, than encourage merchants to make
ready money payments.
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