I Made Signs To
Her That I Was Hungry, And Inquired If She Had Any Victuals With Her
In The Hut.
She immediately laid down her distaff, and desired me,
in Arabic, to come in.
When I had seated myself upon the floor, she
set before me a dish of kouskous that had been left the preceding
night, of which I made a tolerable meal; and in return for this
kindness I gave her one of my pocket-handkerchiefs, begging at the
same time a little corn for my horse, which she readily brought me.
Whilst my horse was feeding the people began to assemble, and one of
them whispered something to my hostess which very much excited her
surprise. Though I was not well acquainted with the Foulah
language, I soon discovered that some of the men wished to apprehend
and carry me back to Ali, in hopes, I suppose, of receiving a
reward. I therefore tied up the corn; and lest any one should
suspect I had run away from the Moors, I took a northerly direction,
and went cheerfully along, driving my horse before me, followed by
all the boys and girls of the town. When I had travelled about two
miles, and got quit of all my troublesome attendants, I struck again
into the woods, and took shelter under a large tree, where I found
it necessary to rest myself, a bundle of twigs serving me for a bed,
and my saddle for a pillow.
July 4. - At daybreak I pursued my course through the woods as
formerly; saw numbers of antelopes, wild hogs, and ostriches, but
the soil was more hilly, and not so fertile as I had found it the
preceding day. About eleven o'clock I ascended an eminence, where I
climbed a tree, and discovered, at about eight miles' distance, an
open part of the country, with several red spots, which I concluded
were cultivated land, and, directing my course that way, came to the
precincts of a watering-place about one o'clock. From the
appearance of the place, I judged it to belong to the Foulahs, and
was hopeful that I should meet a better reception than I had
experienced at Shrilla. In this I was not deceived, for one of the
shepherds invited me to come into his tent and partake of some
dates. This was one of those low Foulah tents in which there is
room just sufficient to sit upright, and in which the family, the
furniture, &c., seem huddled together like so many articles in a
chest. When I had crept upon my hands and knees into this humble
habitation, I found that it contained a woman and three children,
who, together with the shepherd and myself, completely occupied the
floor. A dish of boiled corn and dates was produced, and the master
of the family, as is customary in this part of the country, first
tasted it himself, and then desired me to follow his example.
Whilst I was eating, the children kept their eyes fixed upon me, and
no sooner did the shepherd pronounce the word Nazarani, than they
began to cry, and their mother crept slowly towards the door, out of
which she sprang like a greyhound, and was instantly followed by her
children. So frightened were they at the very name of a Christian,
that no entreaties could induce them to approach the tent. Here I
purchased some corn for my horse, in exchange for some brass
buttons, and having thanked the shepherd for his hospitality, struck
again into the woods. At sunset I came to a road that took the
direction for Bambarra, and resolved to follow it for the night; but
about eight o'clock, hearing some people coming from the southward,
I thought it prudent to hide myself among some thick bushes near the
road. As these thickets are generally full of wild beasts, I found
my situation rather unpleasant, sitting in the dark, holding my
horse by the nose with both hands, to prevent him from neighing, and
equally afraid of the natives without and the wild beasts within.
My fears, however, were soon dissipated; for the people, after
looking round the thicket, and perceiving nothing, went away, and I
hastened to the more open parts of the wood, where I pursued my
journey east-south-east, until past midnight, when the joyful cry of
frogs induced me once more to deviate a little from my route, in
order to quench my thirst. Having accomplished this from a large
pool of rain-water, I sought for an open place, with a single tree
in the midst, under which I made my bed for the night. I was
disturbed by some wolves towards morning, which induced me to set
forward a little before day; and having passed a small village
called Wassalita, I came about ten o'clock (July 5th), to a negro
town called Wawra, which properly belongs to Kaarta, but was at this
time tributary to Mansong, King of Bambarra.
CHAPTER XV - NEGRO CURIOSITY; A MESSAGE FROM THE KING
Wawra is a small town surrounded with high walls, and inhabited by a
mixture of Mandingoes and Foulahs. The inhabitants employ
themselves chiefly in cultivating corn, which they exchange with the
Moors for salt. Here, being in security from the Moors, and very
much fatigued, I resolved to rest myself; and meeting with a hearty
welcome from the dooty, whose name was Flancharee, I laid myself
down upon a bullock's hide, and slept soundly for about two hours.
The curiosity of the people would not allow me to sleep any longer.
They had seen my saddle and bridle, and were assembled in great
numbers to learn who I was and whence I came. Some were of opinion
that I was an Arab; others insisted that I was some Moorish Sultan,
and they continued to debate the matter with such warmth that the
noise awoke me. The dooty (who had formerly been at Gambia) at last
interposed in my behalf, and assured them that I was certainly a
white man; but he was convinced from my appearance that I was a poor
one.
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