The House In Which We
Lodged Being Flat-Roofed, Admitted The Rain In Streams; The Floor
Was Soon Ankle-Deep, The Fire Extinguished, And We Were Left To Pass
The Night Upon Some Bundles Of Firewood That Happened To Lie In A
Corner.
July 17.
- We departed from Datliboo, and about ten o'clock passed a
large coffle returning from Sego with corn-hoes, mats, and other
household utensils. At five o'clock we came to a large village
where we intended to pass the night, but the dooty would not receive
us. When we departed from this place my horse was so much fatigued
that I was under the necessity of driving him, and it was dark
before we reached Fanimboo, a small village, the dooty of which no
sooner heard that I was a white man than he brought out three old
muskets, and was much disappointed when he was told that I could not
repair them.
July 18. - We continued our journey, but, owing to a light supper the
preceding night we felt ourselves rather hungry this morning, and
endeavoured to procure some corn at a village, but without success.
My horse becoming weaker and weaker every day, was now of very
little service to me; I was obliged to drive him before me for the
greater part of the day, and did not reach Geosorro until eight
o'clock in the evening. I found my companions wrangling with the
dooty, who had absolutely refused to give or sell them any
provisions; and as none of us had tasted victuals for the last
twenty-four hours, we were by no means disposed to fast another day
if we could help it. But finding our entreaties without effect, and
being very much fatigued, I fell asleep, from which I was awakened
about midnight with the joyful information Kinne nata! ("The
victuals are come") This made the remainder of the night pass away
pleasantly, and at daybreak, July 19th, we resumed our journey,
proposing to stop at a village called Doolinkeaboo for the night
following. My fellow-travellers, having better horses than myself,
soon left me, and I was walking barefoot, driving my horse, when I
was met by a coffle of slaves, about seventy in number, coming from
Sego. They were tied together by their necks with thongs of a
bullock's hide, twisted like a rope - seven slaves upon a thong, and
a man with a musket between every seven. Many of the slaves were
ill-conditioned, and a great number of them women. In the rear came
Sidi Mahomed's servant, whom I remembered to have seen at the camp
of Benowm. He presently knew me, and told me that these slaves were
going to Morocco by the way of Ludamar and the Great Desert.
In the afternoon, as I approached Doolinkeaboo, I met about twenty
Moors on horseback, the owners of the slaves I had seen in the
morning. They were well armed with muskets, and were very
inquisitive concerning me, but not so rude as their countrymen
generally are. From them I learned that Sidi Mahomed was not at
Sego, but had gone to Kancaba for gold-dust.
When I arrived at Doolinkeaboo I was informed that my fellow-
travellers had gone on, but my horse was so much fatigued that I
could not possibly proceed after them. The dooty of the town at my
request gave me a draught of water, which is generally looked upon
as an earnest of greater hospitality, and I had no doubt of making
up for the toils of the day by a good supper and a sound sleep;
unfortunately, I had neither the one nor the other. The night was
rainy and tempestuous, and the dooty limited his hospitality to the
draught of water.
July 20. - In the morning I endeavoured, both by entreaties and
threats, to procure some victuals from the dooty, but in vain. I
even begged some corn from one of his female slaves, as she was
washing it at the well, and had the mortification to be refused.
However, when the dooty was gone to the fields, his wife sent me a
handful of meal, which I mixed with water and drank for breakfast.
About eight o'clock I departed from Doolinkeaboo, and at noon
stopped a few minutes at a large korree, where I had some milk given
me by the Foulahs, and hearing that two negroes were going from
thence to Sega, I was happy to have their company, and we set out
immediately. About four o'clock we stopped at a small village,
where one of the negroes met with an acquaintance, who invited us to
a sort of public entertainment, which was conducted with more than
common propriety. A dish, made of sour milk and meal, called
sinkatoo, and beer made from their corn, was distributed with great
liberality, and the women were admitted into the society, a
circumstance I had never before observed in Africa. There was no
compulsion - every one was at liberty to drink as he pleased - they
nodded to each other when about to drink, and on setting down the
calabash commonly said Berka ("Thank you"). Both men and women
appeared to be somewhat intoxicated, but they were far from being
quarrelsome.
Departing from thence, we passed several large villages, where I was
constantly taken for a Moor and became the subject of much merriment
to the Bambarrans, who, seeing me drive my horse before me, laughed
heartily at my appearance. "He has been at Mecca," says one, "you
may see that by his clothes;" another asked me if my horse was sick;
a third wished to purchase it, &c., so that, I believe, the very
slaves were ashamed to be seen in my company. Just before it was
dark we took up our lodging for the night at a small village, where
I procured some victuals for myself and some corn for my horse, at
the moderate price of a button; and was told that I should see the
Niger (which the negroes call Joliba, or the Great Water) early the
next day.
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