How I Found Livingstone Travels, Adventures And Discoveries In Central Africa Including Four Months Residence With Dr. Livingstone By Sir Henry M. Stanley
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The
Immediate Shores Of The Lake On All Sides, For At Least Fifty
Feet From The Water's Edge, Is One
Impassable morass nourishing
rank reeds and rushes, where the hippopotamus' ponderous form has
crushed into watery trails the soft composition
Of the morass
as he passes from the lake on his nocturnal excursions; the
lesser animals; such as the "mbogo" (buffalo), the "punda-terra"
(zebra); the " twiga" (giraffe), the boar, the kudu, the
hyrax or coney and the antelope; come here also to quench
their thirst by night. The surface of the lake swarms with an
astonishing variety of water-fowl; such as black swan, duck,
ibis sacra cranes, pelicans; and soaring above on the look-out
for their prey are fish-eagles and hawks, while the neighbourhood
is resonant with the loud chirps of the guinea-fowls calling for
their young, with the harsh cry of the toucan, the cooing of the
pigeon, and the "to-whit, to-whoo" of the owl. From the long
grass in its vicinity also issue the grating and loud cry of
the florican, woodcock, and grouse.
Being obliged to halt here two days, owing to the desertion of the
Hindi cooper Jako with one of my best carbines, I improved the
opportunity of exploring the northern and southern shores of the
lake. At the rocky foot of a low, humpy hill on the northern
side, about fifteen feet above the present surface of the water I
detected in most distinct and definite lines the agency of waves.
From its base could be traced clear to the edge of the dank morass
tiny lines of comminuted shell as plainly marked as the small
particles which lie in rows on a beech after a receding tide.
There is no doubt that the wave-marks on the sandstone might have
been traced much higher by one skilled in geology; it was only
its elementary character that was visible to me. Nor do I
entertain the least doubt, after a two days' exploration of the
neighbourhood, especially of the low plain at the western end,
that this Lake of Ugombo is but the tail of what was once a large
body of water equal in extent to the Tanganika; and, after
ascending half way up Ugombo Peak, this opinion was confirmed when
I saw the long-depressed line of plain at its base stretching
towards the Mpwapwa Mountains thirty miles off, and thence round
to Marenga Mkali, and covering all that extensive surface of forty
miles in breadth, and an unknown length. A depth of twelve feet
more, I thought, as I gazed upon it, would give the lake a length
of thirty miles, and a breadth of ten. A depth of thirty
feet would increase its length over a hundred miles, and give it a
breadth of fifty, for such was the level nature of the plain that
stretched west of Ugombo, and north of Marenga Mkali. Besides the
water of the lake partook slightly of the bitter nature of the
Matamombo creek, distant fifteen miles, and in a still lesser
degree of that of Marenga Mkali, forty miles off.
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