How I Found Livingstone Travels, Adventures And Discoveries In Central Africa Including Four Months Residence With Dr. Livingstone By Sir Henry M. Stanley
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A Residence In This Part Of Africa,
After A Thorough System Of Drainage Had Been Carried Out, Would Not
Be Attended With More Discomfort Than Generally Follows Upon The
Occupation Of New Land.
The temperature at this season during the
day never exceeded 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
The nights were pleasant -
too cold without a pair of blankets for covering; and, as far as
Simbamwenni, they were without that pest which is so dreadful on
the Nebraska and Kansas prairies, the mosquito. The only annoyances
I know of that would tell hard on the settler is the determined
ferocity of the mabungu, or horse-fly; the chufwa, &c., already
described, which, until the dense forests and jungles were cleared,
would be certain to render the keeping of domestic cattle
unremunerative.
Contrary to expectation the Expedition was not able to start at
the end of two days; the third and the fourth days were passed
miserably enough in the desponding valley of Ungerengeri. This
river, small as it is in the dry seasons, becomes of considerable
volume and power during the Masika, as we experienced to our
sorrow. It serves as a drain to a score of peaks and two long
ranges of mountains; winding along their base, it is the recipient
of the cascades seen flashing during the few intervals of sunlight,
of all the nullahs and ravines which render the lengthy frontage
of the mountain slopes so rugged and irregular, until it glides
into the valley of Simbamwenni a formidable body of water,
opposing a serious obstacle to caravans without means to build
bridges; added to which was an incessant downfall of rain - such a
rain as shuts people in-doors and renders them miserable and
unamiable - a real London rain - an eternal drizzle accompanied
with mist and fog. When the sun shone it appeared but a pale
image of itself, and old pagazis, wise in their traditions
as old whaling captains, shook their heads ominously at the
dull spectre, and declared it was doubtful if the rain would cease
for three weeks yet.
The site of the caravan camp on the hither side of the Ungerengeri
was a hot-bed of malaria, unpleasant to witness - an abomination to
memory. The filth of generations of pagazis had gathered
innumerable hosts of creeping things. Armies of black, white, and
red ants infest the stricken soil; centipedes, like worms, of
every hue, clamber over shrubs and plants; hanging to the
undergrowth are the honey-combed nests of yellow-headed wasps with
stings as harmful as scorpions; enormous beetles, as large as
full-grown mice, roll dunghills over the ground; of all sorts,
shapes, sizes, and hues are the myriad-fold vermin with which the
ground teems; in short, the richest entomological collection could
not vie in variety and numbers with the species which the four
walls of my tent enclosed from morning until night.
On the fifth morning, or the 23rd April, the rain gave us a few
hours' respite, during which we managed to wade through the
Stygian quagmire reeking with noisomeness to the inundated
river-bank.
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