How I Found Livingstone Travels, Adventures And Discoveries In Central Africa Including Four Months Residence With Dr. Livingstone By Sir Henry M. Stanley
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The Last Tune Played Before Retiring Was "Home, Sweet
Home."
The morning of the 27th we were all up early:
There was considerable
vis in our movements. A long, long march lay before us that day;
but then I was to leave behind all the sick and ailing. Only
those who were healthy, and could march fast and long, were to
accompany me. Mabruk Saleem I left in charge of a native doctor,
who was to medicate him for a gift of cloth which I gave him in
advance.
The horn sounded to get ready. Shaw was lifted in his litter on
the shoulders of his carriers. My men formed two ranks; the
flags were lifted; and between these two living rows, and under
those bright streamers, which were to float over the waters of
the Tanganika before he should see them again, Shaw was borne
away towards the north; while we filed off to the south, with
quicker and more elastic steps, as if we felt an incubus had
been taken from us.
We ascended a ridge bristling with syenite boulders of massive
size, appearing above a forest of dwarf trees. The view which we
saw was similar to that we had often seen elsewhere. An
illimitable forest stretching in grand waves far beyond the ken of
vision - ridges, forest-clad, rising gently one above another until
they receded in the dim purple-blue distance - with a warm haze
floating above them, which, though clear enough in our
neighbourhood, became impenetrably blue in the far distance.
Woods, woods, woods, leafy branches, foliage globes, or
parachutes, green, brown, or sere in colour, forests one above
another, rising, falling, and receding - a very leafy ocean. The
horizon, at all points, presents the same view, there may be an
indistinct outline of a hill far away, or here and there a tall
tree higher than the rest conspicuous in its outlines against the
translucent sky - with this exception it is the same - the same clear
sky dropping into the depths of the forest, the same outlines, the
same forest, the same horizon, day after day, week after week; we
hurry to the summit of a ridge, expectant of a change, but the
wearied eyes, after wandering over the vast expanse, return to the
immediate surroundings, satiated with the eversameness of such
scenes. Carlyle, somewhere in his writings, says, that though the
Vatican is great, it is but the chip of an eggshell compared to the
star-fretted dome where Arcturus and Orion glance for ever; and I
say that, though the grove of Central Park, New York, is grand
compared to the thin groves seen in other great cities, that though
the Windsor and the New Forests may be very fine and noble in
England, yet they are but fagots of sticks compared to these
eternal forests of Unyamwezi.
We marched three hours, and then halted for refreshments. I
perceived that the people were very tired, not yet inured to a
series of long marches, or rather, not in proper trim for earnest,
hard work after our long rest in Kwihara. When we resumed our
march again there were several manifestations of bad temper and
weariness. But a few good-natured remarks about their laziness
put them on their mettle, and we reached Ugunda at 2 P.M. after
another four hours' spurt.
Ugunda is a very large village in the district of Ugunda, which
adjoins the southern frontier of Unyanyembe. The village probably
numbers four hundred families, or two thousand souls. It is well
protected by a tall and strong palisade of three-inch timber.
Stages have been erected at intervals above the palisades with
miniature embrasures in the timber, for the muskets of the
sharpshooters, who take refuge within these box-like stages to
pick out the chiefs of an attacking force. An inner ditch, with
the sand or soil thrown up three or four feet high against the
palings, serves as protection for the main body of the defenders,
who kneel in the ditch, and are thus enabled to withstand a very
large force. For a mile or two outside the village all obstructions
are cleared, and the besieged are thus warned by sharp-eyed watchers
to be prepared for the defence before the enemy approaches within
musket range. Mirambo withdrew his force of robbers from before
this strongly-defended village after two or three ineffectual attempts
to storm it, and the Wagunda have been congratulating themselves
ever since, upon having driven away the boldest marauder that
Unyamwezi has seen for generations.
The Wagunda have about three thousand acres under cultivation
around their principal village, and this area suffices to produce
sufficient grain not only for their own consumption, but also for
the many caravans which pass by this way for Ufipa and Marungu.
However brave the Wagunda may be within the strong enclosure with
which they have surrounded their principal village, they are not
exempt from the feeling of insecurity which fills the soul of a
Mnyamwezi during war-time. At this place the caravans are
accustomed to recruit their numbers from the swarms of pagazis who
volunteer to accompany them to the distant ivory regions south;
but I could not induce a soul to follow me, so great was their
fear of Mirambo and his Ruga-Raga. They were also full of rumors
of wars ahead. It was asserted that Mbogo was advancing towards
Ugunda with a thousand Wakonongo, that the Wazavira had attacked a
caravan four months previously, that Simba was scouring the country
with a band of ferocious mercenaries, and much more of the same
nature and to the same intent.
On the 28th we arrived at a small snug village embosomed within the
forest called Benta, three hours and a quarter from Ugunda. The
road led through the cornfields of the Wagunda, and then entered
the clearings around the villages of Kisari, within one of which we
found the proprietor of a caravan who was drumming up carriers for
Ufipa.
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