How I Found Livingstone Travels, Adventures And Discoveries In Central Africa Including Four Months Residence With Dr. Livingstone By Sir Henry M. Stanley
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He Had Been Halted Here Two Months, And He Made Strenuous
Exertions To Induce My Men To Join His Caravan, A Proceeding That
Did Not Tend To Promote Harmony Between Us.
A few days afterwards
I found, on my return, that he had given up the idea of proceeding
south.
Leaving Kisari, we marched through a thin jungle of black
jack, over sun-cracked ground with here and there a dried-up pool,
the bottom of which was well tramped by elephant and rhinoceros.
Buffalo and zebra tracks were now frequent, and we were buoyed up
with the hope that before long we should meet game.
Benta was well supplied with Indian corn and a grain which the
natives called choroko, which I take to be vetches. I purchased
a large supply of choroko for my own personal use, as I found it
to be a most healthy food. The corn was stored on the flat roofs
of the tembes in huge boxes made out of the bark of the mtundu-tree.
The largest box I have ever seen in Africa was seen here. It might
be taken for a Titan's hat-box; it was seven feet in diameter, and
ten feet in height.
On the 29th, after travelling in a S.W. by S. direction, we
reached Kikuru. The march lasted for five hours over sun-cracked
plains, growing the black jack, and ebony, and dwarf shrubs, above
which numerous ant-hills of light chalky-coloured earth appeared
like sand dunes.
The mukunguru, a Kisawahili term for fever, is frequent in this
region of extensive forests and flat plains, owing to the imperfect
drainage provided by nature for them. In the dry season there
is nothing very offensive in the view of the country. The burnt
grass gives rather a sombre aspect to the country, covered with
the hard-baked tracks of animals which haunt these plains during
the latter part of the rainy season. In the forest numbers of
trees lie about in the last stages of decay, and working
away with might and main on the prostrate trunks may be seen
numberless insects of various species. Impalpably, however, the
poison of the dead and decaying vegetation is inhaled into the
system with a result sometimes as fatal as that which is said to
arise from the vicinity of the Upas-tree.
The first evil results experienced from the presence of malaria are
confined bowels and an oppressive languor, excessive drowsiness,
and a constant disposition to yawn. The tongue assumes a
yellowish, sickly hue, coloured almost to blackness; even the
teeth become yellow, and are coated with an offensive matter.
The eyes of the patient sparkle lustrously, and become suffused
with water. These are sure symptoms of the incipient fever which
shortly will rage through the system.
Sometimes this fever is preceded by a violent shaking fit, during
which period blankets may be heaped on the patient's form, with
but little amelioration of the deadly chill he feels. It is then
succeeded by an unusuall/y/ severe headache, with excessive pains
about the loins and spinal column, which presently will spread
over the shoulder-blades, and, running up the neck, find a final
lodgment in the back and front of the head. Usually, however, the
fever is not preceded by a chill, but after languor and torpitude
have seized him, with excessive heat and throbbing temples, the
loin and spinal column ache, and raging thirst soon possesses him.
The brain becomes crowded with strange fancies, which sometimes
assume most hideous shapes. Before the darkened vision of the
suffering man, float in a seething atmosphere, figures of created
and uncreated reptiles, which are metamorphosed every instant into
stranger shapes and designs, growing every moment more confused,
more complicated, more hideous and terrible. Unable to bear longer
the distracting scene, he makes an effort and opens, his eyes,
and dissolves the delirious dream, only, however, to glide again
unconsciously into another dream-land where another unreal inferno
is dioramically revealed, and new agonies suffered. Oh! the many
many hours, that I have groaned under the terrible incubi which
the fits of real delirium evoke. Oh! the racking anguish of body
that a traveller in Africa must undergo! Oh! the spite, the
fretfulness, the vexation which the horrible phantasmagoria of
diabolisms induce! The utmost patience fails to appease, the most
industrious attendance fails to gratify, the deepest humility
displeases. During these terrible transitions, which induce
fierce distraction, Job himself would become irritable, insanely
furious, and choleric. A man in such a state regards himself as
the focus of all miseries. When recovered, he feels chastened,
becomes urbane and ludicrously amiable, he conjures up fictitious
delights from all things which, but yesterday, possessed for him
such awful portentous aspects. His men he regards with love and
friendship; whatever is trite he views with ecstasy. Nature appears
charming; in the dead woods and monotonous forest his mind becomes
overwhelmed with delight. I speak for myself, as a careful
analysation of the attack, in all its severe, plaintive, and silly
phases, appeared to me. I used to amuse myself with taking notes
of the humorous and the terrible, the fantastic and exaggerated
pictures that were presented to me - even while suffering the
paroxysms induced by fever.
We arrived at a large pool, known as the Ziwani, after a four
hours' march in a S.S.W. direction, the 1st of October. We
discovered an old half-burnt khambi, sheltered by a magnificent
mkuyu (sycamore), the giant of the forests of Unyamwezi, which
after an hour we transformed into a splendid camp.
If I recollect rightly, the stem of the tree measured thirty-eight
feet in circumference. It is the finest tree of its kind I have
seen in Africa. A regiment might with perfect ease have reposed
under this enormous dome of foliage during a noon halt. The
diameter of the shadow it cast on the ground was one hundred and
twenty feet. The healthful vigor that I was enjoying about this
time enabled me to regard my surroundings admiringly.
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