May 11. - The river rose about four feet during the night, and still
continues to rise. Set forward on our journey down the river. About four
miles and a half from this morning's station. the river began to wash
the immediate edge of the plain, and so continued to do all along. My
astonishment was extreme at finding the banks of the river not more than
six feet from the water: it at once confirmed my supposition that the
whole of this extensive country is frequently inundated; the river was
here about thirty yards broad. Mount Cunningham was at this time distant
about two miles, and Mount Melville four miles; the plains winding
immediately under the base of each. At twelve o'clock ascended the south
end of Mount Cunningham, a small branch of the river running close under
it. From this elevation our view was very extensive in every direction,
particularly in the west quarter. The whole country in that direction
was so low, that it might not improperly be termed a swamp, the spaces
which were bare of trees being more constantly under water than those
where they grew. A remarkable peaked hill bearing W. 27 1/4. N. was
named Hurd's Peak [Note: After Captain Hurd, Hydrographer to the
Admiralty.], and a lofty hummock S. 83 1/2. W, Mount Meyrick: these were
the only elevations of any consequence in the western direction. To the
north, low ranges of rocky hills bounded the swamps, which on the south
had a similar boundary, except that occasionally a bolder rocky
projection would obtrude itself on the flat.
On descending from the hill, we proceeded to the point where the
north-west arm is separated from the main branch, but apparently to join
it in water, bearing from Mount Cunningham W. 40. N.: on arriving there
we found the boats and horses. The crew of the former reported, that an
equally considerable branch of the river, with that down which they had
come, had turned off to the south-west, about two miles below the place
where we stopped last night. After directing the horses and baggage to
be got over the north-west arm, I returned to examine the branch passed
by the boats, and found it at least as considerable as that which we
were pursuing. I am in hopes that when again joined, the width and depth
of the river will be considerably increased. At half past four returned
to the tents on the north-west arm. The river (from whatever cause) was
still rising, and no part of the banks was more than four feet above
the level of the water. I consider that the river may have from eight to
ten feet more water in it than usual: its present average depth is about
eighteen feet.
The soil of these extensive plains, designated Field's Plains, is for
the most part extremely rich, as indeed might be expected, from the
deposition of the quantities of vegetable matter that must take place in
periods of flood.
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