So, for they hardly spoke a word, without adding "a G-d d - me" to
it, and thus cursing, quarrelling, drinking, singing, and fighting,
they seemed to be pleased, and to enjoy the evening. I must do them
the justice to add, that none of them, however, at all molested me
or did me any harm. On the contrary, every one again and again
drank my health, and I took care not to forget to drink theirs in
return. The treatment of my host at Matlock was still fresh in my
memory, and so, as often as I drank, I never omitted saying, "Your
healths, gentlemen all!"
When two Englishmen quarrel, the fray is carried on, and decided,
rather by actions than by words; though loud and boisterous, they do
not say much, and frequently repeat the same thing over and over
again, always clinching it with an additional "G - d - you!" Their
anger seems to overpower their utterance, and can vent only by
coming to blows.
The landlady, who sat in the kitchen along with all this goodly
company, was nevertheless well dressed, and a remarkably well-
looking woman. As soon as I had supped I hastened to bed, but could
not sleep; my quondam companions, the colliers, made such a noise
the whole night through. In the morning, when I got up, there was
not cue to be seen nor heard.
I was now only a few miles from Nottingham, where I arrived towards
noon.
This, of all the towns I have yet seen, except London, seemed to me
to be one of the best, and is undoubtedly the cleanest. Everything
here wore a modern appearance, and a large place in the centre,
scarcely yielded to a London square in point of beauty.
From the town a charming footpath leads you across the meadows to
the high-road, where there is a bridge over the Trent. Not far from
this bridge was an inn, where I dined, though I could get nothing
but bread-and-butter, of which I desired to have a toast made.
Nottingham lies high, and made a beautiful appearance at a distance,
with its neat high houses, red roofs, and its lofty steeples. I
have not seen so fine a prospect in any other town in England.
I now came through several villages, as Ruddington, Bradmore, and
Buny, to Castol, where I stayed all night.
This whole afternoon I heard the ringing of bells in many of the
villages. Probably it is some holiday which they thus celebrate.
It was cloudy weather, and I felt myself not at all well, and in
these circumstances this ringing discomposed me still more, and made
me at length quite low-spirited and melancholy.
