As It Was Quite Dark When I Came Back The First
Evening, I Was Astonished At The Admirable Manner In Which The
Streets Are Lighted Up; Compared To Which Our Streets In Berlin Make
A Most Miserable Show.
The lamps are lighted whilst it is still
daylight, and are so near each other, that even on the
Most ordinary
and common nights, the city has the appearance of a festive
illumination, for which some German prince, who came to London for
the first time, once, they say, actually took it, and seriously
believed it to have been particularly ordered on account of his
arrival.
CHAPTER IV.
The 9th June, 1782.
I preached this day at the German church on Ludgate Hill, for the
Rev. Mr. Wendeborn. He is the author of "Die statischen Beytrage
zur nahern Kentniss Grossbrittaniens." This valuable book has
already been of uncommon service to me, and I cannot but recommend
it to everyone who goes to England. It is the more useful, as you
can with ease carry it in your pocket, and you find in it
information on every subject. It is natural to suppose that Mr.
Wendeborn, who has now been a length of time in England, must have
been able more frequently, and with greater exactness to make his
observations, than those who only pass through, or make a very short
stay. It is almost impossible for anyone, who has this book always
at hand, to omit anything worthy of notice in or about London; or
not to learn all that is most material to know of the state and
situation of the kingdom in general.
Mr. Wendeborn lives in New Inn, near Temple Bar, in a philosophical,
but not unimproving, retirement. He is almost become a native; and
his library consists chiefly of English books. Before I proceed, I
must just mention, that he has not hired, but bought his apartments
in this great building, called New Inn: and this, I believe, is
pretty generally the case with the lodgings in this place. A
purchaser of any of these rooms is considered as a proprietor; and
one who has got a house and home, and has a right, in parliamentary
or other elections, to give his vote, if he is not a foreigner,
which is the case with Mr. Wendeborn, who, nevertheless, was visited
by Mr. Fox when he was to be chosen member for Westminster.
I saw, for the first time, at Mr. Wendeborn's, a very useful
machine, which is little known in Germany, or at least not much
used.
This is a press in which, by means of very strong iron springs, a
written paper may be printed on another blank paper, and you thus
save yourself the trouble of copying; and at the same time multiply
your own handwriting. Mr. Wendeborn makes use of this machine every
time he sends manuscripts abroad, of which he wishes to keep a copy.
This machine was of mahogany, and cost pretty high. I suppose it is
because the inhabitants of London rise so late, that divine service
begin only at half-past ten o'clock. I missed Mr. Wendeborn this
morning, and was therefore obliged to enquire of the door-keeper at
St. Paul's for a direction to the German church, where I was to
preach. He did not know it. I then asked at another church, not
far from thence. Here I was directed right, and after I had passed
through an iron gate to the end of a long passage, I arrived just in
time at the church, where, after the sermon, I was obliged to read a
public thanksgiving for the safe arrival of our ship. The German
clergy here dress exactly the same as the English clergy - i.e., in
long robes with wide sleeves - in which I likewise was obliged to
wrap myself. Mr. Wendeborn wears his own hair, which curls
naturally, and the toupee is combed up.
The other German clergymen whom I have seen wear wigs, as well as
many of the English.
I yesterday waited on our ambassador, Count Lucy, and was agreeably
surprised at the simplicity of his manner of living. He lives in a
small private house. His secretary lives upstairs, where also I met
with the Prussian consul, who happened just then to be paying him a
visit. Below, on the right hand, I was immediately shown into his
Excellency's room, without being obliged to pass through an
antechamber. He wore a blue coat, with a red collar and red
facings. He conversed with me, as we drank a dish of coffee, on
various learned topics; and when I told him of the great dispute now
going on about the tacismus or stacismus, he declared himself, as a
born Greek, for the stacismus.
When I came to take my leave, he desired me to come and see him
without ceremony whenever it suited me, as he should be always happy
to see me.
Mr. Leonhard, who has translated several celebrated English plays,
such as "The School for Scandal," and some others, lives here as a
private person, instructing Germans in English, and Englishmen in
German, with great ability. He also it is who writes the articles
concerning England for the new Hamburgh newspaper, for which he is
paid a stated yearly stipend. I may add also, that he is the master
of a German Freemasons' lodge in London, and representative of all
the German lodges in England - an employment of far more trouble than
profit to him, for all the world applies to him in all cases and
emergencies. I also was recommended to him from Hamburgh. He is a
very complaisant man, and has already shown me many civilities. He
repeats English poetry with great propriety, and speaks the language
nearly with the same facility as he does his mother language. He is
married to an amiable Englishwoman. I wish him all possible
happiness. And now let me tell you something of the so often
imitated, but perhaps inimitable
Vauxhall.
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