The Soil Is Bare And Lumpy As A
Ploughed Field, And All The Leafage That Hangs Low Is Thick With A
Clayey Dust.
One cannot rest or loiter or drowse; no spot in all the
groves where by any possibility one could sit down.
After rambling
as long as I chose, I found that a view of the orchard from outside
was more striking than the picture amid the trees themselves. Senza
nulla toccare, I went my way.
CHAPTER VIII
FACES BY THE WAY
The wind could not roar itself out. Through the night it kept
awaking me, and on the morrow I found a sea foamier than ever;
impossible to reach the Colonna by boat, and almost so, I was
assured, to make the journey by land in such weather as this.
Perforce I waited.
A cloudless sky; broad sunshine, warm as in an English summer; but
the roaring tramontana was disagreeably chill. No weather could be
more perilous to health. The people of Cotrone, those few of them
who did not stay at home or shelter in the porticoes, went about
heavily cloaked, and I wondered at their ability to wear such
garments under so hot a sun. Theoretically aware of the danger I was
running, but, in fact, thinking little about it, I braved the wind
and the sunshine all day long; my sketch-book gained by it, and my
store of memories. First of all, I looked into the Cathedral, an
ugly edifice, as uninteresting within as without.
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