I Suppose This Place Was More Untouched, As The Phrase Goes, That Is,
More Living, More Intense, And More Powerful To Affect Others,
Whenever It May Be Called To Do So, Than Are Even The Dear Villages Of
Sussex That Lie Under My Downs.
For those are haunted by a nearly
cosmopolitan class of gentry, who will have actors, financiers, and
what not to come and stay with them, and who read the paper, and from
time to time address their village folk upon matters of politics.
But
here, in this broad plain by the banks of the Emmen, they knew of
nothing but themselves and the Church which is the common bond of
Europe, and they were in the right way. Hence it was doubly hard on me
that they should think me such a stranger.
When I had become a little morose at their perpetual laughter, I asked
for a bed, and the landlady, a woman of some talent, showed me on her
fingers that the beds were 50c., 75c., and a franc. I determined upon
the best, and was given indeed a very pleasant room, having in it the
statue of a saint, and full of a country air. But I had done too much
in this night march, as you will presently learn, for my next day was
a day without salt, and in it appreciation left me. And this breakdown
of appreciation was due to what I did not know at the time to be
fatigue, but to what was undoubtedly a deep inner exhaustion.
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