It is visited by the
citizens on Fridays, and by women on Thursdays, to prevent that meeting
of sexes which in the East is so detrimental to public decorum. I shall
be sparing in my description of the Ma’ala ceremonies, as the prayers,
prostrations, and supplications are almost identical with those
performed at Al-Bakia.
After a long supplication, pronounced standing at the doorway, we
entered, and sauntered about the burial-ground. On the left of the road
stood an enclosure, which, according to Abdullah, belonged to his
family. The door and stone slabs, being valuable to the poor, had been
removed, and the graves of his forefathers appeared to have been
invaded by the jackal. He sighed, recited a Fatihah with tears in his
eyes, and hurried me away from the spot.
The first dome which we visited covered the remains of Abd al-Rahman,
the son of Abu Bakr, one of the Worthies of Al-Islam, equally respected
by Sunni and by Shi’ah. The tomb was a simple catafalque, spread with the
usual cloth. After performing our devotions at this grave, and
distributing a few piastres to guardians and beggars, we crossed the
main path, and found ourselves at the door of the cupola, beneath which
sleeps the venerable Khadijah, Mohammed’s first wife.