I Shall Go To-Morrow To Bid The T-S Good-Bye, At Wynberg.
I was to
have spent a few days there, but Wynberg is cold at night and
dampish, so I declined that.
She is a nice woman - Irish, and so
innocent and frank and well-bred. She has been at Cold Bokke Veld,
and shocked her puritanical host by admiring the naked Caffres who
worked on his farm. He wanted them to wear clothes.
We have been amused by the airs of a naval captain and his wife,
who are just come here. They complained that the merchant-service
officers spoke FAMILIARLY to their children on board. Quel audace!
When I think of the excellent, modest, manly young fellows who
talked very familiarly and pleasantly to me on board the St.
Lawrence, I long to reprimand these foolish people.
Friday, 21st. - I am just come from prayer, at the Mosque in
Chiappini Street, on the outskirts of the town. A most striking
sight. A large room, like a county ball-room, with glass
chandeliers, carpeted with common carpet, all but a space at the
entrance, railed off for shoes; the Caaba and pulpit at one end;
over the niche, a crescent painted; and over the entrance door a
crescent, an Arabic inscription, and the royal arms of England! A
fat jolly Mollah looked amazed as I ascended the steps; but when I
touched my forehead and said, 'Salaam Aleikoom', he laughed and
said, 'Salaam, Salaam, come in, come in.' The faithful poured in,
all neatly dressed in their loose drab trousers, blue jackets, and
red handkerchiefs on their heads; they left their wooden clogs in
company, with my shoes, and proceeded, as it appeared, to strip.
Off went jackets, waistcoats, and trousers, with the dexterity of a
pantomime transformation; the red handkerchief was replaced by a
white skullcap, and a long large white shirt and full white drawers
flowed around them. How it had all been stuffed into the trim
jacket and trousers, one could not conceive. Gay sashes and
scarves were pulled out of a little bundle in a clean silk
handkerchief, and a towel served as prayer-carpet. In a moment the
whole scene was as oriental as if the Hansom cab I had come in
existed no more. Women suckled their children, and boys played
among the clogs and shoes all the time, and I sat on the floor in a
remote corner. The chanting was very fine, and the whole ceremony
very decorous and solemn. It lasted an hour; and then the little
heaps of garments were put on, and the congregation dispersed, each
man first laying a penny on a very curious little old Dutch-
looking, heavy, iron-bound chest, which stood in the middle of the
room.
I have just heard that the post closes to-night and must say
farewell - a rivederci.
LETTER XI
Capetown, March 20th.
Dearest mother,
Dr. Shea says he fears I must not winter in England yet, but that I
am greatly improved - as, indeed, I could tell him.
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