At A Cost Of Ninety Piastres (About 19s.) Each,
For The Whole Distance.
This rate, with the addition of the
guide's expenses, equals about 5s. 6d. per 100 lbs.
For carriage
throughout 373 miles of burning desert. Although this frightful
country appears to be cut off from all communication with the
world, the extremely low rate of transport charges affords great
facility for commerce."*
* Since that date, 31st May, 1861, the epidemic or cattle
plague carried off an immense number of camels, and the
charges of transport rose in 1864 and 1865 to a rate that
completely paralysed the trade of Upper Egypt.
Berber is a large town, and in appearance is similar to the Nile
towns of Lower Egypt, consisting of the usual dusty, unpaved
streets, and flat-roofed houses of sun-baked bricks. It is the
seat of a Governor, or Mudir, and is generally the quarters for
about 1,500 troops. We were very kindly received by Halleem
Effendi, the ex-Governor, who at once gave us permission to pitch
the tents in his garden, close to the Nile, on the southern
outskirt of the town. After fifteen days of desert marching, the
sight of a well-cultivated garden was an Eden in our eyes. About
eight acres of land, on the margin of the river, were thickly
planted with lofty date groves, and shady citron and lemon trees,
beneath which we revelled in luxury on our Persian rugs, and
enjoyed complete rest after the fatigue of our long journey.
Countless birds were chirping and singing in the trees above us;
innumerable ring-doves were cooing in the shady palms; and the
sudden change from the dead sterility of the desert to the scene
of verdure and of life, produced an extraordinary effect upon the
spirits. What caused this curious transition? Why should this
charming oasis, teeming with vegetation and with life, be found
in the yellow, sandy desert? . . . Water had worked this change;
the spirit of the Nile, more potent than any genii of the Arabian
fables, had transformed the desert into a fruitful garden.
Halleem Effendi, the former Governor, had, many years ago,
planted this garden, irrigated by numerous water-wheels; and we
now enjoyed the fruits, and thanked Heaven for its greatest
blessings in that burning land, shade and cool water.
The tents were soon arranged, the camels were paid for and
discharged, and in the cool of the evening we were visited by the
Governor and suite.
The firman having been officially presented by the dragoman upon
our arrival in the morning, the Governor had called with much
civility to inquire into our projects and to offer assistance. We
were shortly seated on carpets outside the tent, and after pipes
and coffee, and the usual preliminary compliments, my dragoman
explained, that the main object of our journey was to search for
the sources of the Nile, or, as he described it, "the head of the
river."
Both the Governor and Halleem Effendi, with many officers who had
accompanied them, were Turks; but, in spite of the gravity and
solidity for which the Turk is renowned, their faces relaxed into
a variety of expressions at this (to them) absurd announcement.
"The head of the Nile!" they exclaimed, "impossible!" "Do they
know where it is?" inquired the Governor, of the dragoman; and
upon an explanation being given, that, as we did not know where
it was, we had proposed to discover it, the Turks merely shook
their heads, sipped their coffee, and took extra whiffs at their
long pipes, until at length the white- haired old Halleem Effendi
spoke.
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