A Woman's Journey Round The World, From Vienna To Brazil, Chili, Tahiti, China, Hindostan, Persia, And Asia Minor By Ida Pfeiffer
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It
Represents A Mosque Of An Octagon Form, With Lofty Arched Entrances,
Which, Together With The Four Minarets That Stand At The Corners Of
The Terrace, Is Entirely Built Of White Marble.
The principal dome
rises to a height of 260 feet, and is surrounded by four smaller
ones.
Round the outside of the mosque extracts from the Koran are
inlaid in characters of black marble.
In the principal apartment stand two sarcophagi, of which one
contains the remains of the sultan, the other those of his
favourite. The lower part of the walls of this apartment, as well
as both sarcophagi, are covered with costly mosaic work of the most
beautiful stones. A marble lattice-work, six feet high, surrounding
the two sarcophagi, is a masterpiece of art. It is so delicate and
finely worked, that it seems as if turned out of ivory. The
graceful columns and the narrow cornices are also covered, above and
below, with jasper, agate, etc. Among these, I was shown the so-
called "goldstone," which has a perfect gold colour, and is said to
be very costly, even more so than lapis-lazuli.
Two gateways and two mosques stand at a small distance from the Taj-
Mehal. They are built of red sandstone and white marble. If they
stood apart, each would be considered a master-work; as it is,
however, they lose in attraction by their proximity to the Taj-
Mehal, of which a traveller says, with full justice: "It is too
pure, too sacred, too perfect, to have been constructed by men's
hands - angels must have brought it from heaven; and one imagines
there ought to be a glass shade over it, to protect it from every
breath and every wind."
Although this mausoleum is more than 250 years old, it is as perfect
as if it was only just finished.
Many travellers affirm that the Taj-Mehal produces a magical effect
when lighted by the moon. I saw it during a full moonshine, but was
so little pleased, that I much regretted, by this sight, having
somewhat weakened my former impression of it. The moon's light
gives a magical effect to old ruins or Gothic buildings, but not to
a monument which consists of white brilliant marble. Moonlight
makes the latter appear in indistinct masses, and as if partly
covered with snow. Whoever first promulgated this opinion
respecting the Taj-Mehal perhaps visited it in some charming
company, so that he thought everything round him was heavenly and
supernatural; and others may have found it more convenient, instead
of putting it to the test themselves, to repeat the statement of
their predecessors.
One of the most interesting excursions of my whole journey was to
the ruins of the town of Fattipoor Sikri, eighteen miles from Agra,
and six miles in circumference. We rode thither, and had ordered
changes of horses, so as to be able to make the journey in one day.
On our way, we passed at times over extended heaths, on one of which
we saw a small herd of antelopes. The antelope is a kind of deer,
but smaller in size. It is extremely delicate and prettily formed,
and is distinguished by narrow dark-brown stripes along the back.
The herd crossed the road before us without much timidity, passing
over ditches and bushes, and leaping more than twenty feet at a
time, with such graceful movements that they seemed as if dancing
through the air. I was not less delighted by the sight of two wild
peacocks. It afforded me peculiar pleasure to see these animals in
a state of freedom, which we Europeans are accustomed to keep as
rarities, like exotic plants.
The peacock is here somewhat larger than any I had seen in Europe;
the display of colours also, and the general brilliancy of the
plumage, struck me as being finer and brighter.
These birds are considered by the Indians almost as sacred as the
cow. They appear to fully understand this kindness, for they are
seen, like house-birds, walking about in the villages or quietly
resting upon the roofs. In some districts, the Indians are so
prejudiced in their favour, that no European can venture to shoot
one of them without exposing himself to the greatest insults. Only
four months since, two English soldiers fell victims to this neglect
of Hindostanee customs. They killed several peacocks; the enraged
people fell upon them and ill-used them in such a way that they
shortly afterwards died.
Fattipoor Sikri stands upon a hill; the fortress walls, the mosque,
and other buildings can therefore be seen from a distance. On both
sides of the road, a short distance outside the walls, lie remains
of houses or single apartments, fragments of handsome columns, etc.
With great regret I saw the natives breaking many of them, and
converting them into building materials for their houses.
The entrance to the fortress and town was through three handsome
gates, and over masses of rubbish and fragments. The view which
here presents itself is much more impressive than that at Pompeii,
near Naples. There, indeed, everything is destroyed, but it is
another and more orderly kind of destruction - streets and squares
appear as clean as if they had only been abandoned yesterday.
Houses, palaces, and temples are free from rubbish; even the track
of the carriages remain uneffaced. Pompeii, moreover, stands on a
plain, and it cannot, therefore, be seen at one glance; its extent,
too, is scarcely half so great as that of Sikri; the houses are
smaller, the palaces not so numerous, and inferior in splendour and
magnitude. But here a larger space is covered with magnificent
buildings, mosques, kiosks, columned halls, and arcades, with
everything that was in the power of art to create; and no single
object has escaped the destructive influence of time - all is falling
into ruin. It is scarcely more than two hundred years since the
town was in a flourishing state of wealth and magnificence, and it
is hardly possible to divest the mind of the idea of a terrible
earthquake having overwhelmed it.
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