We had lost sight of the Rajmahal Hills at Bogulpore; on both sides
of the river, nothing was now to be seen but an uninterrupted
succession of flat plains.
24th December. Patna, {160b} one of the largest and most ancient
cities of Bengal, with a population of about 300,000 souls, {161}
consists of a long, broad street, eight miles long, with numerous
short alleys running into it. The houses, which are mostly
constructed of mud, struck me as particularly small and wretched.
Under the projecting roofs are exposed for sale goods and provisions
of the simplest kind. That part of the street in which the greatest
number of these miserable shops are situated, is dignified by the
grand name of the "Bazaar." The few houses of a better description
might easily be counted without any very great trouble; they are
built of tiles, and surrounded by wooden galleries and colonnades
prettily carved. In these houses were to be found the best and
finest shops.
The temples of the Hindoos, the Ghauts (flights of steps, halls, and
gateways) on the Ganges, like the mosques of the Mahomedans, always
look a great deal better at a distance than they do on a nearer
inspection. The only objects worthy of notice which I saw here,
were a few bell-shaped mausoleums, like those in Ceylon, which they
greatly surpassed in size, although not in artistic beauty; they
were certainly more than 200 feet in circumference, and eighty feet
in height. Excessively narrow entrances, with simple doors, conduct
into the interior. On the outside, two small flights of steps,
forming a semicircle, lead up to the top. The doors were not opened
for us, and we were obliged to content ourselves with the assurance
that, with the exception of a small, plain sarcophagus there was
nothing inside.
Patna is a place of great importance, from the trade in opium, by
which many of the natives acquire large fortunes. As a general
rule, they make no display of their riches, either as regards their
clothes, or in any other public kind of luxury. There are only two
sorts of dress - one for those in easy circumstances, which is like
that of the Orientals, and one for the poorest classes, which
consists of a piece of cloth bound round the loins.
The principal street presents a bustling appearance, being much
frequented by carriages, as well as pedestrians. The Hindoos, like
the Jews, are such determined foes to walking, that they do not
think the worst place in the most wretched cart beneath their
acceptance.
The vehicles in most general use are narrow, wooden cars upon two
wheels, and composed of four posts with cross-beams. Coloured
woollen stuff is hung over these, and a kind of canopy keeps off the
sun. There is properly only room for two persons, although I have
seen three or four crowded into them. This put me in mind of the
Italians, who fill a carriage so that not even the steps are left
vacant. These cars are called baili. They are closely curtained
when women travel in them.
I expected to see the streets here full of camels and elephants,
since I had read so much about it in some descriptions: but I saw
only bailis drawn by oxen and a few horsemen, but neither camels nor
elephants.
Towards evening we drove to Deinapore, {162} which is eight miles
from Patna, along an excellent post-road, planted with handsome
trees.
Deinapore is one of the largest English military stations, and
contains extensive barracks, which almost constitute a town in
themselves. The town is but a short distance from the barracks.
There are many Mahomedans among the inhabitants, who surpass the
Hindoos in industry and perseverance.
I here saw elephants for the first time on the Indian continent. In
a serai outside the town there were eight large handsome animals.
When we returned to the ship in the evening, we found it like a
camp. All kinds of articles were brought there and laid out for
inspection; but the shoemakers were particularly numerous. Their
work appeared neat and lasting, and remarkably cheap. A pair of
men's boots, for example, cost from one and a half to two rupees
(3s. to 4s.); but it is true that twice as much is always asked for
them. I saw on this occasion the way in which the European sailors
conduct bargains with the natives. One of the engineers wanted to
buy a pair of shoes, and offered a quarter of the price asked. The
seller, not consenting to this, took his goods back; but the
engineer snatched them out of his hand, threw down a few beis more
than what he had offered, and hastened to his cabin. The shoemaker
pursued him, and demanded the shoes back; instead of which he
received several tough blows, and was threatened that if he was not
quiet he should be compelled to leave the ship immediately. The
poor creature returned half crying to his pack of goods.
A similar occurrence took place on the same evening. A Hindoo boy
brought a box for one of the travellers, and asked for a small
payment for his trouble; he was not listened to. The boy remained
standing by, repeating his request now and then. He was driven
away, and as he would not go quietly, blows were had recourse to.
The captain happened to pass accidentally, and asked what was the
matter. The boy, sobbing, told him; the captain shrugged his
shoulders, and the boy was put out of the ship.
