A Woman's Journey Round The World, From Vienna To Brazil, Chili, Tahiti, China, Hindostan, Persia, And Asia Minor By Ida Pfeiffer
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Their Huts, Which Are Composed Of Foliage, They Build
Themselves; Their Food Consists Of Small Fish, Roots, And A Few
Vegetables.
Nor is their apparel more expensive; for, beyond the
immediate vicinity of the town, and where all the plantations are
situated, the children go about entirely naked, while the men wear
nothing more than a small apron about a hand's-breadth wide, and
fastened between the legs:
The women are the only persons dressed
with anything like propriety.
The plantations that we now saw, and which we reached about 10
o'clock, were cultivated by Chinese. In addition to their huts of
leaves, they had erected a small temple, where they invited us to
alight. We immediately spread out upon the altar some refreshments,
which Madame Behu, like a good housewife, had given us; but, instead
of imitating the Chinese, and sacrificing them to the gods, we were
wicked enough to devour them ravenously ourselves.
When we had satisfied our hunger, we skinned the serpent and then
made a present of it to the Chinese; but they gave us to understand
that they would not touch it, at which I was greatly surprised,
since they will generally eat anything. I was afterwards convinced
that this was all pretence, for on returning some hours later from
our hunting excursion and going into one of their huts, we found
them all seated round a large dish in which were pieces of roast
meat of the peculiar round shape of the serpent. They wanted to
hide the dish in a great hurry, but I entered very quickly and gave
them some money to be allowed to taste it. I found the flesh
particularly tender and delicate, even more tender than that of a
chicken.
But I have quite forgotten to describe our hunting excursion. We
asked the labourers if they could not put us on the track of a
tiger; they described to us a part of the wood where one was
reported to have taken up his abode a few days previously, and we
immediately set off. We had great difficulty in forcing our way
through the forest, having, at every instant, to clamber over
prostrate trees, creep through brambles or cross over swamps, but we
had, at all events, the satisfaction of progressing, which we
certainly should not have had in the forests of Brazil, where such
an undertaking would have been impracticable. It is true that there
were creepers and orchids, but not in such numbers as in Brazil, and
the trees, too, stand far wider apart. We saw some splendid
specimens, towering to a height of above a hundred feet. The
objects which interested us most were the ebony and kolim trees.
The timber of the first is of two kinds, a layer of brownish-yellow
surrounding the inner stem, which composes that portion especially
known as ebony.
The kolim-tree diffuses an excessively strong odour, similar to that
of onions, indicating its site at some distance off. The fruit
tastes extremely like onions, and is very often used by the common
people, but its odour and taste are too strong for Europeans. I
merely just touched a piece of fresh rind, and my hands smelt of it
the next morning.
We beat about the forest for some hours without meeting the game of
which we were in search. We once thought that we had found the
lair, but we soon found that we were mistaken. One of the
gentlemen, too, affirmed that he heard the growl of a bear; it must,
however, have been a very gentle growl, as no one else heard it,
although we were all close together.
We returned home without any further addition to our stock of game,
but highly delighted with our agreeable trip.
Although Singapore is a small island, and all means have been used
and rewards offered for the extirpation of the tigers, they have
failed. Government gives a premium of a hundred dollars, and the
Society of Singapore Merchants a similar sum for every tiger killed.
Besides this, the valuable skin belongs to the fortunate hunter, and
even the flesh is worth something, as it is eagerly bought by the
Chinese for eating. The tigers, however, swim over from the
neighbouring peninsula of Malacca, which is only separated from
Singapore by a very narrow channel, and hence it will be impossible
to eradicate them entirely.
The varieties of fruit found at Singapore are very numerous and
beautiful. Among the best may be reckoned the mangostan, which is
said to grow only here and in Java. It is as big as a middling-
sized apple. The rind is a deep brown on the outside and scarlet
inside, and the fruit itself is white, and divided naturally into
four or five sections: it almost melts in the mouth, and has an
exquisite flavour. The pine-apples are much more juicy, sweeter,
and considerably larger than those at Canton; I saw some which must
have weighed about four pounds. Whole fields are planted with them,
and when they arrive at full maturity, three or four hundred may be
bought for a dollar. They are often eaten with salt. There is also
another kind of fruit, "sauersop," which also often weighs several
pounds, and is green outside and white or pale yellow inside. It
very much resembles strawberries in taste, and, like them, is eaten
with wine and sugar. The gumaloh is divided into several distinct
slices, and resembles a pale yellow orange, but is not so sweet and
juicy; many people, however, prefer it; it is at least five times as
large as an orange. In my opinion, however, the palm of excellence
is borne away by the "custard apple," which is covered with small
green scales. {125} The inside, which is full of black pips, is
very white, as soft as butter, and of the most exquisite flavour.
It is eaten with the help of small spoons.
A few days before my departure from Singapore, I had an opportunity
of witnessing the burial of a Chinese in easy circumstances.
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