23rd September. Another bad night; nothing but wind and rain. How
I pitied the poor, sick fellows, and even those who were well,
exposed to this weather on the deck.
Towards noon we arrived at Kertsch; the town can be seen very well
from the sea, as it stretches out in a semi-circle on the shore, and
rises a little up the hill Mithridates {321}, which lies behind.
Higher up the hill is the museum, in the style of a Grecian temple -
circular, and surrounded with columns. The summit of the mountain
ends in a fine group of rocks, between which stand some obelisks and
monuments, which belong to the old burial-place. The country round
is a steppe, covered with artificial earth-mounds, which make the
graves of a very remote period. Besides the Mithridates, there is
no hill or mountain to be seen.
Kertsch lies partly on the spot where Pantikapaum formerly stood.
It is now included in the government of Tauria; it is fortified, has
a safe harbour, and rather considerable commerce. The population
amounts to 12,000. The town contains many fine houses, which are
chiefly of modern date; the streets are broad, and furnished with
raised pavements for foot passengers. There is much gaiety in the
two squares on Sundays and festivals.
